Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys,

I have waited 14 years and think its about time to treat myself to a car that I have adored for a looong time :thumbsup:

I'm after an extremely well cared for, excellent example of a R32 GTR, preferably black but charcoal is acceptable too I guess. LOL

The car is going to be used as a daily driver and will be doing alot of K's per week so reliability is a very important factor.

Im not phased if its a normal gtr, vspec1 or 11 and have not ruled out the option of personally importing one myself if I cant find anything in Australia that fits the bill. I'm in NSW but have bought cars and bikes from out of state in the past, the most recent one was in Febuary this year, so that doesnt phase me either.

Hopefully a real enthusiast will pass on their beloved GTR to another enthusiast and fullfill one of my childhood dreams(yes Its been that long! LOL)

Im in no hurry to buy and willing to wait as long as it takes to find the "one"... P.S. Im a real fussy F@*ker!!

Thanks for taking the time to read my add fellas,

Cheers,

Denks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369470-wanted-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

price range mate? also modified or standard?

I dont really have a price range mate, I know what they are worth so basically looking for the right car!:cheers:

I dont mind it being built as long as it has been built right... not looking for anybodys unfinished projects/dodgy back yard build ups(basically no corners cut sort of deal)

Totally untouched and standard is always my prefered way of buying as I dont have to spend money fixing other peoples mistakes(costs more sometimes)... and build it to my specifications. But If I find one that has been built/modified right and cared for like it should be then yeah! GAME ON!!:thumbsup:

One thing that I prefer is that I would like it to be a matching numbers car, original motor, gearbox that sort of deal.

Hope that has shed some more light on what Im after mate.

Cheers,

Denks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369470-wanted-r32-gtr/#findComment-5889345
Share on other sites

I have one for sale, not really keen on lettin it go but I'm keen to sell it to the right person. I'm very anal about my cars also. It gun metal grey, stock bottom end with only bolt on mods. The car was bought stock standard and i still have all the standard parts. Pm me if you interested.

Edited by 105EME
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369470-wanted-r32-gtr/#findComment-5891727
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...