Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1993 Skyline R33 GTS-T

122,000km. $12,500

Hey,

I've owned (and loved!) this car for the last 5 years.

After repainting the car in January, the turbo died. Rather than replacing the stock turbo, I had a much bigger one installed. In hindsight, that was a bad idea, as I've now lost all my license points as the car accelerates so easily. To ensure that I don't lose my license because I need it for work, I've bought a Hyundai excel.

SERVICING

The car has 122,000km's on it. I had a major service done at 100,000km's which included a new heavy duty radiator, spitfire coilpacks, air con regassing, as well as the usual timing belts, spark plugs, etc. I have it serviced every 5,000km's by Gavin Wood AUTOTECH. Rebuilt and Re-shimmed diff.

INTERIOR

The interior looked a bit dated and old, so I've replaced everything I could to make it more comfortable and modern looking. This includes a Series II Instrument Cluster, Genuine R33 GTR Seats, Leather Steering Wheel, new leather hand brake boot, gear boot and centre console cover, GTR gearknob, and custom-made R33 floormats. If you have ever been in a normal GTS-T, you will see and feel how much nicer this is.

The stereo consists of an Alpine head unit (iPOD and USB input), and front and rear 6.5" splits running from a boot mounted amplifier.

EXTERIOR

Series I R33's aren't very attractive, so I performed a full Series II conversion including Series II headlights and grill, LED taillights, Trial front bodykit, and Series II rear spoiler. The car has 18" Wheels with Federal 595 Tyres. The car was originally dark gray, but was resprayed in Electric Orange in January, which has yellow in it when viewed in the sun. The car is lowered on TEIN suspension, with rolled front and rear guards.

ENGINE

All engine work has been done by Gavin Wood AUTOTECH.

Genuine Garrett GT3076 (0.82 exh housing) with 50mm External Wastegate.

PowerFC (Z32 AFM and 480cc Nissan S15 injectors)

Full 3" metal intake and exhaust. Front Mount Intercooler and Turbosmart BOV.

250kw with Dyno Sheets on conservative street tune.

PROBLEMS

All the usual R33 problems that happen at this age have been addressed. I've had the drivers power window relay fixed (R33 drivers power window often stops working after 15 years), air con buttons fixed (they occasionally break). The clutch "friction point" is very close to the floor. I had the master and slave cylinder's rebuilt, which didn't help. My mechanic said it's not worth fixing until I am replacing the clutch, which I haven't done yet as it's still very grippy.

I've owned this car for 5 years and really don't want to let her go, but it's either that or 1 more speeding fine causing a loss of license (and my job!).

Please, no test pilots!

Call or SMS Isaac anytime on 0421 517 163

My workplace has bad phone reception so between 8-4 I can be reached on (07) 5573 8572

post-43177-0-18118000-1309434659_thumb.jpg

post-43177-0-17108400-1309434673_thumb.jpg

post-43177-0-17392200-1309434685_thumb.jpg

post-43177-0-47964700-1309434697_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369566-orange-r33-skyline/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks, SilverS2. Glad somebody appreciates all the work that has gone into it :)

It's heartbreaking, but i've seen R34's asking for twice as much but end up selling for not much more, obviously nowhere near as much work done to them, just the way the market is :/

Thanks, SilverS2. Glad somebody appreciates all the work that has gone into it :)

It's heartbreaking, but i've seen R34's asking for twice as much but end up selling for not much more, obviously nowhere near as much work done to them, just the way the market is :/

I woul'dnt let some tight ass buy it for 10k, thats rediculus

have you thought bout selling the good bits separate?? alot of goodies on it , seems to be what people do..not that im trying to get stuff off it..

such a shame..:rant:

lol..

how is someone a tightarse for buying a skyline for $10K?

You are right, it has lots of good bits on it.

and if 18 year olds could buy turbo cars, this would be priced closer to $15K

but they can't.

and trying to find someone that wants to buy a bright orange skyline is going to be hard.

And even though the whole car has been given the series 2 treatment, it is a 1993 R33 series 1.

Honestly, I would want to get it real cheap so I could get it sprayed a regular colour and still come out under $9K

you probably are better off selling all your good bolt ons and getting it back to standard and selling it for like $6K or something..

but it's just a pain in the arse to undo all the good work.

What does a complete colour change respray cost these days?

Respray cost - paint plus some alcohol normally. If you can't find someone to do it for less then $1000 including paint your not looking hard enough.

Edited by lilcrash

sorry.. I wasn't referring to a ipswich special where the cost of everything is calculated in "packs of winnie blues"

I meant from a body shop, where someone who does car sprays for a living, but doesn't charge like Queen Street Smash repairs.

I doubt it is going to cost $1K to get rid of the orange AND still be a decent paint job in 6 weeks time.

Edited by GTST

That $1000 was factoring in booth rental and a trade qualified painter, only down side is you will need to sand it yourself.

Good luck with the sale

Edited to save time arguing with a keyboard warrior.

Edited by lilcrash

gees theres some tossers on here!! noting wrong with the paint job, why would you want to go back to a stock colour???

nice paint job and is unique beast!! :thumbsup: man up tossers!! :domokun:

right ok..

as a person looking to buy a car at the moment, I say I don't want an orange car and that it will be harder to sell than a stock colour and I'm a tosser?

cool..

I'll move aside and let all the other buyers that are lined up have a look.

right ok..

as a person looking to buy a car at the moment, I say I don't want an orange car and that it will be harder to sell than a stock colour and I'm a tosser?

cool..

I'll move aside and let all the other buyers that are lined up have a look.

:nyaanyaa: dont buy it then, its got a gt30 so its worth 10k+

  • 4 weeks later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I'm about to complete my first single turbo conversion on my R32 GTR and I thought I would post the step by steps that I will be following. I will list the parts I have / the parts I will be buying. I will be redoing this guide after I have completed the conversion. Parts list: - 3576 turbo 0.82 v-band (coolant and oil)  - v-band top mount turbo manifold - 50mm wastegate - manifold copper gasket - titanium manifold stud kit - turbosmart 3 port boost solenoid - link can lambda kit (wideband) - link ECU - radium 12AN push in valve cover fittings (pair) - hi octane catch can - 3.5inch downpipe - screamer pipe - pipe from turbo to intercooler - intake pipe setup - power steering relocation kit - oil drain block off plate - coolant and oil lines Now onto the step by step guide (please add / correct me if there's anything I missed: 1. remove fluids, twin turbo pipes, pod filters and afm's 2. remove the factory coolant hardlines from the hot side. 3. remove heat shields  4. remove the downpipe 5. remove turbos and manifolds 6. remove factory manifold studs 7. clean whatever mess you have made 8. install power steering relocation kit 9. install new manifold studs 10. install new turbo manifold with gasket 11. install new wastegate with screamer pipe 12. install new turbo  13. install new coolant and oil lines  14. install rear oil drain block off plate 15. stop and appreciate that you now have a single turbo in your GTR 16. wipe away tears of joy and install downpipe 17. install the wideband sensor into downpipe 18.install pipe to connect turbo to intercooler 19 .remove stock boost solenoid  20. install new boost solenoid 21.  install intake setup 22. setup the rest of the can lambda kit with the ecu  23. refill fluids and hope for the best 24. ask forums for help with issues 25. fix issues 26. drive your single turbo swapped r32 GTR into the sunset. Doneeeeeeeeeee. Now I know this isn't detailed at all but I will be doing that when the conversion is done. I will be posting pics and any helpful details i can and ill make sure to fit in as much information as I can. If there's anything I should know before i do this PLEASE let me know. Stay tuned for what's next. Thanks...
    • I have wasted too much time on this, more than I am willing to admit. I hope someone can set the record straight for me.  I want to replace my Nismo (non GT pro, non GT) standard 2 way in my R33 GTST with a 1.5 way... Ideally I want to get an ATS 1.5 way Carbon LSD, but I don't want to reuse my 29 spline 5x1 axle stubs, and new 30 spline 5x1's are impossible to get a hold of ($$$), and I don't want to drop the cash on going to 6x1 stubs and axles ATM. Which leads me to the Nismo GT Pro 38420-RSS15-B5 or RSS20, as they come with new axle stubs meant for the diff, and is "Convertible" from a 2 way or 1.5 way to "Other ways", but that is where I am stuck as the documentation is a bit all over the place.  To sum up what I have found I believe the all the Nismo GT Pro PN's are convertible from 2 way, 1.5 way, and 1 way; but Nismo sells 2 skus (2 & 1.5) so people do not have to disassemble to convert it.  I found this thread on 350z but it left the question unanswered. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/620032-nismo-gt-pro-lsd-1-5-vs-2-way-and-torque.html  Essentially the way I think it all works out is like follows...  2 way  1 way  and 1.5 way would be the center pinion shaft in the 1 way block, but with the with the center flipped 180*. So the ramped side of the pinion would face the 1 way gate and act like a ramp.    I can only get my hands on the 2 way in the states, and I am not trying to get stuffed on tariffs by ordering from Japan or anywhere else. I want to confirm that if I get the 2 way I can convert it to the 1.5.     
    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
×
×
  • Create New...