Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im about to get my power fc tonight was wondering what the std preset settings aer like on the power fc. my car is std boost with fmic, pod filter and exhaust. am i really just able to plug it in and drive off, im scared something will happen like it wont work or car will drive weird. anyone with experience can help me out???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36998-wats-std-power-fc-settings-like/
Share on other sites

i got my pfc last week and put it in the car around 30 minutes and drove away. The car is dream now to drive. Now the boost is strong and hard and you will manage to pull away from a lot of cars. Yeh you can drive it around no problems until you get it tunned. Just dont boost the crap out of it without knowing your limits. Nothing weird should happen unless you got your boost controller setting turned on which will stop you from starting the car.

hope this info helps

Ak

im about to get my power fc tonight was wondering what the std preset settings aer like on the power fc. my car is std boost with fmic, pod filter and exhaust. am i really just able to plug it in and drive off, im scared something will happen like it wont work or car will drive weird. anyone with experience can help me out???
Yes the default settings are fine for your car.  

If the car doesn't start make sure you have the Boost Controller option off .

Crap

Settings are fine for your car if you run 100 RON and are in (lower) Japan ambient temperatures.

Both my S15 and GTR pinged with the PFC factory settings in summer with less than a moderate boost (less than 1 bar).

Suggest tuning ASAP for the sake of engine insurance.

Crap

Settings are fine for your car if you run 100 RON and are in (lower) Japan ambient temperatures.

Both my S15 and GTR pinged with the PFC factory settings in summer with less than a moderate boost (less than 1 bar).

Suggest tuning ASAP for the sake of engine insurance.

Crap,

did you notice he said standard boost? I drove mine hard on hot summers days with out getting it tuned no probs - with standard boost. When it did go on the dyno, it was rich everywhere.

Yep - may have been rich, but the timing is quite advanced through the meat of the torque curve.

I've damaged two engines by driving them on PFC base maps - no one's fault but my own.

I can only speak for S15 and GTR units - but that's my experience and my advice. It's up to you vendetta if he wants to take it or not.

GAV- so will i be fine if i dont thrash the shit out of it. id get it tuned now but i want to wait to put a bigger fuel pump and then boost it to like 10-12. cos it will be a bit of a waste if i get it tuned now on std boost and fuel if im changing it in the near future. Gav if i just drive it like normal without punishing it until i get it tuned will i be safe or still damaging the engine

Steve- how long did you drive without getting it tuned and leaving it on standard pfc settings

If you HAVE to drive it untuned, keep the boost down and make sure the knock warning settings are turned on (same menu as the boost control kit, AFM max warning etc). If the knock warning goes off - believe it! In my experience the minimum setting (60?) is a little high and my tuner has heard knock below this.

BTW - Don't know what car you have. If it's a GTR, make sure you tune with the Datalogit as it gives a much better result (and heaps less dyno time!).

Don't think it's available for RB25 yet, however.

Anyway, good luck.

is it just a switch or do i need the hand controller to do it..do you guys have the hand controller with yours?

You need a HC to do this.

Crap

Settings are fine for your car if you run 100 RON and are in (lower) Japan ambient temperatures.

Both my S15 and GTR pinged with the PFC factory settings in summer with less than a moderate boost (less than 1 bar).

Suggest tuning ASAP for the sake of engine insurance.

PowerFC detonation sensor is set to go off above 60. For the entire duration I had the powerFC in the car before tuning I did not get above this (maybe a month or so). It was midyear then so the weather was cool and I was running 1 bar boost via removal of the boost solenoid. My car is a R33 GTR btw.

During this time I did hit full boost but did not do anything like extended power runs or track days. Gav, you speak from experience on this matter having damaged two engines but so am I. I did not get any detonation at all... seriously. When I did get the FC tuned the tuners advanced my ignition further anyway and leaned the mixtures.

GAV- so will i be fine if i dont thrash the shit out of it. id get it tuned now but i want to wait to put a bigger fuel pump and then boost it to like 10-12. cos it will be a bit of a waste if i get it tuned now on std boost and fuel if im changing it in the near future. Gav if i just drive it like normal without punishing it until i get it tuned will i be safe or still damaging the engine

Yes it would be a waste of money getting it tuned twice but then if you're worried why don't you wait for the fuel pump and then only put in the powerFC.

In my experience the minimum setting (60?) is a little high and my tuner has heard knock below this.

I think this would be debatable. This maybe the case but also on the flip side it come go above 60 and you can hear no pinging at all. The knock sensors in different cars may operate at different sensitivities due to age of car/wear/ whatever.... but I do not believe if the det sensor goes off in the PFC it means that detonation has occured. A few tuners have said this as well incl Hitman to name one.

im getting the power fc now as the price i got it for i doubt it id gdt it this cheap ever again. otherwise the power fc is the last thing id get.

When the power fc is brand new is it set to boost controll OFF std. as i dont have a HC. ???

What I meant is why don't you get it now and not put it in until you get your fuel pump. From memory the boost control is ON std but I have a bad memory :(

Boost control option will be ON by default for a new PFC.

Won't do any harm except that the engine check light will stay on.

I'm not sure if the engine check light will be able to flash in this mode, however, if you experience warnings (knock, max injectors, max AFM).

When i got my pfc and plugged it into my GTS25t it pinged its tits of.

After tuning it was fine.

If you want to see how good it runs with the base maps (with regard to pinging) set the hand controller to monitor detonation. It will log the current and the peak amount of detonation. I have been told that you can drive around with it pinging 20 all day. If you get over 60 that is the point your engine light will start flashing (if you have that option set in the pfc using the hc) and that is also the point at which i am told the pinging is audible.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
×
×
  • Create New...