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So, ended up buying this stand for more a bit more than the cost of the wheel.

I've been thrashing the wheel and it's unbelievably rigid. Plus, I can fold it away and hide it for when guests come over... unless we're having a GT5 night.

The game is completely different and I'm surprised at how well the force feedback reacts to the game. The neutral function for when you don't press the clutch at the right time is a bit annoying though - just needs some getting used to...

you maybe doing something wrong with the clutch but what I found out on gt5 is it wont let you put it in gear if the revs are too high. So you need to make sure you don't touch the accelerator until your in gear if that makes sense.

Probably you pay for the name and reliability

In saying that my dealings with the faulty products department has been 2nd to none

I had a faulty USB cable on my G9X mouse I told them about it and he was like nos we'll send you another one didn't even want the faulty one back

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    • Depending on the hose, sometimes engine out is the easiest option  
    • Get an inspection camera up there. 
    • Yeah, but look at the margin in viscosity between the 40 and the 60 at 125°C. It is not very large. It is the difference between 7 and 11 cP. Compare that to the viscosity at only 90°C. The viscosity axis is logarithmic. The numbers at 90 are ~15 and ~35. That is about half for the 40 wt oil and <half for the 60. You give up viscosity EXPONENTIALLY as temperature rises. Literally. That is why I declare thicker oil to be a bandaid, and a brittle one at that. Keep the oil temperature under about 110°C and you should be better off.   Having said all of that, which remains true as a general principle, if you have indeed lost enough oil from the sump that the pump was seeing slightly aerated oil, then all bets are off. That would of course cause oil pressure to collapse. And 35 psi is a collapse given what you were doing to the engine. Especially if the oil was that hot and viscosity had also collapsed. And I would put money on rod or main bearings being the source of the any noise that registered as knock. Hydraulic lifters should be able to cope with the hotter oil and lower pressure enough to prvent too much high frequency noise, although I am willing to admit it could be the source.
    • Thanks for the reply mate. Well I really hope its a hose then not engine out job
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