Jump to content
SAU Community

C210 Coupe For Sale On Ebay

NightMonkeyII
 Share

Recommended Posts

passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
Posted

Thought I'd wade in on this as well as your mostly well aware that I transplanted the L6 for 308 and with no regret. I love 8's, speed, the gruff V8 sound and of course the uniqueness of the C210 Coupe. In my eyes it's everything that i want, and try buying an Aussie 2 door coupe with V8 slotted, you'd be in for a small fortune. Should I ever want to return it to al'natural, it'd be so easy as hardly anything was changed. even the speedo cable slotted into the supra ( W58) box. Mine is engineered with original brakes and around town in normal driving they work fine, but even the 308 only weighed about 30kg more. My weigh bridge numbers with 1/4 tank of fuel was 1273.

My best time down the 1\4 mile was 15.8 ( L6, triple 45 webers, mild cam and tuned length zorst). I'm very confident after running a few times down the 1\4 unclocked as it was at a car show, the datto will be in the 14's and this will improve with mods to come. During the course of those runs down the 1\4 the brakes worked fine , but my brakes all round were renewed for engineering. The response I get is mixed according to what people drive, but the majority use words such as " sick" awsome and man that looks like a factory fit. As for the ali 76 motor, warps is totally on it. I had a few mates back in NZ that used the Leyland motor in a variety of vehicles and I think some of the Aus Z car fraternity have used them. at the end of the day it's about what you want and what gives you the most pleasure. So long as it's old school, it's cool.

I f that coupe had been here in WA I would have pounced on it, shame it was'nt.

Silent Shadow Rising Star

Silent Shadow

Posted
Posted

well said ricky.

i was seriously considering buying this. i even found someone to do mod plates and roadworthy once the rust was out. but unfortunately as i have put all my money into my coupe, i couldnt pull 3g out of my ass in a week. pretty guttered.

my dream was to use it as a daily and keep mandie nice. if i didnt like the v8 i could just chuck mandie's old L24 back in no sweat, and make a nice stocker.

i called the bloke to ask a few questions about this thing and ended up talking to the guy for a bit over an hour about C210s and what not. he's a proper nice bloke and you could almost say he lives, breaths, and shits datsun skylines lol. mad enthusiast!

it was really cool to share ideas and stories about these things. oh and this is the guy who originally built the ex d-limo/ now xramjetx's blue 210 sedan. he was pretty stoked to hear it was still around.

so who bought it? anyone here?

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

Thought I'd wade in on this as well as your mostly well aware that I transplanted the L6 for 308 and with no regret. I love 8's, speed, the gruff V8 sound and of course the uniqueness of the C210 Coupe. In my eyes it's everything that i want, and try buying an Aussie 2 door coupe with V8 slotted, you'd be in for a small fortune. Should I ever want to return it to al'natural, it'd be so easy as hardly anything was changed. even the speedo cable slotted into the supra ( W58) box. Mine is engineered with original brakes and around town in normal driving they work fine, but even the 308 only weighed about 30kg more. My weigh bridge numbers with 1/4 tank of fuel was 1273.

My best time down the 1\4 mile was 15.8 ( L6, triple 45 webers, mild cam and tuned length zorst). I'm very confident after running a few times down the 1\4 unclocked as it was at a car show, the datto will be in the 14's and this will improve with mods to come. During the course of those runs down the 1\4 the brakes worked fine , but my brakes all round were renewed for engineering. The response I get is mixed according to what people drive, but the majority use words such as " sick" awsome and man that looks like a factory fit. As for the ali 76 motor, warps is totally on it. I had a few mates back in NZ that used the Leyland motor in a variety of vehicles and I think some of the Aus Z car fraternity have used them. at the end of the day it's about what you want and what gives you the most pleasure. So long as it's old school, it's cool.

I f that coupe had been here in WA I would have pounced on it, shame it was'nt.

Hey Ricky,

Good luck with the 14's, I'm curious what you can get from your 308 C210 that weighs 1273kg.

My auto MX83 Cressida at 1420kg fitted with 4.0L 1UZFE 32V Quad cam alloy V8 run a 14.709 at WSID and then I was happy, because no 5.0L brock dunnydore ever went that quick on the 1/4 (400m)

The day I run the 14.709 I had an 195 HSV dunnydore against me and he was one really pissed off owner. lol

Cheers, D

passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
Posted

In Sept I'll find out D, as that's when our Woopass Wednesday starts again. My 308 isn't stock, it does have heavily modded L34 heads, yella terra rollers, quality manifold, a decent cam and a 650 double pumper. The reason I think It'll do 14's is that I've had a few runs against 5.7's and it hangs in there. Now I believe a stock 5.7 is good for 14 something over the quarter so this is my bases. Anyway I'll post up my time good or bad once I've run it. In the next day or two I'll put up another Utube post so you can hear what it sounds like now.

NightMonkeyII Enthusiast

NightMonkeyII

Posted
  • Author
Posted

After seeing this car, ive been thinking about installing a VH41DE into my C210 coupe when its done. awesome sounding engine (youtube videos)

It has a awkward inlet manifold, i think with some modification and re-fabricating a inlet manifold,, i can look very neat in the engine bay, and its all alloy.

Lots of performance parts available from the US

Definitely has me thinking.....

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

After seeing this car, ive been thinking about installing a VH41DE into my C210 coupe when its done. awesome sounding engine (youtube videos)

It has a awkward inlet manifold, i think with some modification and re-fabricating a inlet manifold,, i can look very neat in the engine bay, and its all alloy.

Lots of performance parts available from the US

Definitely has me thinking.....

Why a VH41 when VH45 is identical external dimension?

Have a talk to Mark at MRC Dyno Services http://www.mrcdyno.com.au/ as he has built an VH45TT HR31 coupe that is now for sale, sporting 360rwkw.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...