Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys/Girls

downgrading the stagea for a new car but the dealer will only give me $5k for the car

its series2, silver , frontpipe + exhaust, 103K kms on the clock 17 inch ROH mags, sat nav/tv/dvd, immobiliser, back bumper has had some loving from a carpark

would have thought it would be atleast worth $9k on the private market, but...

are these cars still continuing to move or has the stagea craze kinda stopped and people looking for the m35

my stagea is not immaculate but its damn good and still a very honest car - but the mrs has a new job and needs a more ecconomical car for daily duties.

advice on this topic will assist in making the decision to trade it in and play hardball with the car dealer or sell seperately and take out a full $30K loan until it is sold.

Thanks in advance

(and no this is not an attempt to pre sell the car on the forum - i realise there is a seperate section for that :thumbsup: )

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370919-market-for-c34-stageas/
Share on other sites

if you take any car for a trade in, they are going to offer you the lowest value in the redbook straight up - you take a hit on the price for the convenience of a quick and clean changeover. my old man got offered 9k for his audi S-line FROM Audi when buying a new Audi. We sold it privately 3 weeks later for 18k. Remember you're allowed to haggle trade in value just as much as you can haggle new vehicle price. often it's a combination of the two to come out at the right price.

As for the market for stageas - it's well and truly still there. But it is an enthusiast vehicle, and an unusual one at that - you can't expect a quick sale - you need to set a price that you're happy to let it go for and wait for a buyer to come to you. All my car's have been like that, and some of them have taken up to 12 months to sell, but that's the reality of owning something unique. Take's the right person to appreciate the value proposition.

As for M35's vs C34 market, i think people buy an M35 for a different reason to a C34 so i don't think the market's are cannibalising eachother.. both are great cars, but for what i wanted from a car and what i wanted to do with the car the C34 was the natural choice. for other people, M35 is the natural choice.

don't be disheartened. clean it up, throw it up for sale with lots of pics and info, and let the market do the rest. just be prepared to wait. worst case scenario, you sell it for 6k and you're ahead of where you would be if you take the trade! :thumbsup:

Edited by SMOKEYC34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...