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C34 RSFour V Build in the US


Chi-Town
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Well there aren't many Stagea in the US and even less people building one so I figured I'd post up my progress. Not sure if you guys do build threads, if not delete this no harm / no foul.

As most of you have seen I've been asking a lot of questions as I get parts ready to swap my C34 S1 over to manual.

I've read all the threads, searched until my fingers bled and there are still a lot of conflicting answers so I thought I'll document my build with some updated info and part numbers to make life easier for the next person.

So far I have acquired for the swap:

(NLA = No Longer Available new)

R33 GT-R 5 speed

R33 GT-S brake pedal assembly (Nissan 46501-70T00 - NLA) , Clutch pedal assembly (Nissan 46540-21U00 - NLA), and Clutch master (Nissan 30610-AA10A)

S2 complete manual center console (Nissan 96911-0V800 NLA)

S2 Manual ECU (yes I know, but I want a NisTune setup)

S1 260RS cluster / S2 260RS cluster ( Both Nissan - NLA / not sure which one I like better)

R33 Handbrake w/ cable (Nissan 36010-15U00 - NLA)

S2 Handbrake w/ cable (Nissan 36010-17U00 - NLA)

Floor mounting bracket for the hand brake lever (Weld in / Nissan 74334-72T00)

Shifter adapter sheet metal (Weld in / Nissan 74320-05U00 - NLA)

Shifter boot hold down ring (Nissan 74966-35F00)

Shifter boot (Nissan 74960-35F00 - NLA / 7496091P00 substitute?)

Shifter boot insulator (Nissan 7496705U00 - NLA / 7496791P00 substitute?)

 Collected Facts:

Front and rear driveshafts from the auto will fit the manual

Car will drive fine on the Auto ECU

RB26/GT-R has different ratio in the diffs so if you're swapping engines install the RB25 sump or get the correct ratio rear diff and the matching CV shafts

ATTESSA will work fine (needs TPS signal from ECU only)

ABS will work fine ? (still need to conifrm)

 

To be continued....

 

 

 

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Good to see. I was just checking something around the manual conversion I did about 10 years ago in mine, and found these part numbers (noting they many are probably NLA now, but 2nd hand may be an option)

Handbrake    36010-15U00        
Gear Lever        32841-21U00    32841-21U10    
Gear Lever snap ring    32204-V5003        
Gear Lever boot    24216-V5010        
Brake Pedal        46501-70T00        
Clutch Pedal        46540-0V700    46540-21U00    
Clutch and Master Bracket        46550-0V700    46550-21U00    
Clutch Master Cylinder        30610-AA107    30610-21U91    30610-21U04
 

Note, you can use R34 manual centre console and shifter finisher, here are pics from mine. You can see in the last pic there is a very minor difference in finish on the console

20220715_165808.jpg

20220715_165853.jpg

20220715_165820.jpg

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And to add, yes ABS is not affected, and also you don't need to replace the dash (it will just show P or N but not the other gears of course).

You didn't mention in the list above, but obviously you need a flywheel, clutch, bolts to suit and also remember to change the auto spiggot bush in the back of the crank across to a manual one, they are different sizes.

Also....it is an awesome modification for a stagea :)

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@DuncanI was this close to buying an R34 console just to see how close it was lol

Yeah I ran out of time yesterday but my goal is to get all the info/part numbers in one place. Hopefully to help the next guy as these cars are about to take off here in the US.

 

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I'm in WA (will probably be interpreted as Western Australia on here but I mean Washington State). My C34 is at the port of Tacoma currently, just waiting on customs to clear it so I can go pick it up. I think you're correct that these cars are about to get popular in the states. I know of another KR4 Stagea already in WA. Seen another guy on the east coast (I think it was? Maybe southeast) with a seafoam green color C34.

What are the specs on yours?

Mine is fairly basic, few factory options but just a RB25DE 25X model. White/cream leather seats are probably the only somewhat rare aspect of mine. Going to be my daily. Trying to learn these cars more and figure out what crosses over with what. It was nice to score mint kouki tail lights for $100 on YAJ. These are still slept on... for now.

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@S1_C34 Yeah I'm seeing a lot of talk on social media about the 260RS's and the prices are already going up in Japan. My Stagea is a KR4 97' RS-Four V and unfortunately it's stuck in Japan till the end of November as it's a 12/97 production.

Be careful on YAJ with the tails as I've seen a lot of broken mounting studs on some of them. Call Colton up at Boost factory right across the border from you he's been parting out a lot of S2's and has reasonable prices. I just got a bunch of stuff from him.

Update on my progress:

Picked up an R34 rear subframe/suspension assembly with diff (anyone need a V-Spec diff?) and axles for cheap. Stripped it down for new bushings and a bit of powder coating. Going to have the uprights vapor blasted.

Getting ready to order the Nismo suite of links and bushings. I refuse to run spherical ends on street cars (wear/noise) and poly is just a bit to much NVH for an old man like me.

I'm still up in the air on brakes. I know I can run the Z33 Brembo on the front by opening up the bolt hole and use the matching discs. Will the Z33 rears bolt to my R34 uprights or will I need an adapter?

Picked up a new R33 GT-R 5 speed (only a few $ more than used are going for) and used transfer case finally. Need to decide on a clutch soon.

The collecting (hoarding) continues! 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Little bit of an update as the summer heat really slows things down here in SoCal.

Picked up a bunch of Ohlins coil overs from Japan. One set of R33 GT-R single adjustable PCV (?), One set of R33 GT-R double adjustable (DFV?), and set of C34 Stagea rears.

For the record the C34 rears are about an inch (~25mm) longer than the R33 rears but it seems to be all body length, stroke looks the same. The top mounts are different also.

Got the R34 rear subframe back, waiting on the Nismo bits to arrive to complete that project.

I've amassed a pile of 26RS clusters at this point but still looking for a Dolphin speedometer if anyone has it laying around?

Also looking for the 260RS Tunnel Brace if you have one sitting on a shelf?

other than that just playing with the wife's Cappuccino till more parts arrive.

image.thumb.jpeg.21c447811ece230e3545ca6c0d966364.jpeg

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  • 7 months later...

Well it's been a minute since my last update.

Car finally arrived 3 months late.

It was a grade 4/B in the USS Tokyo auction but it's more like a 3.5/B. 

There is overspray and and few panels you can tell have been painted but not a spot of rust anywhere which is nice.

Working through the usual issues, bonnet and liftgate struts, and a few maintenance items.

I installed the front Ohlins, the BBS wheels and Nismo smoked side markers along with a set of Freeway Dolphin smoked LED front indicators to get a bit of a better look to it. I can't install the rears until I get rear subframe installed with the alloy rear uprights. 

The RB26 sits on the stand stripped down waiting for parts and the 5mt conversion will start shortly.

I have a complete engine bay harness and engine harness from a 260RS, anyone know if it will be a PnP with the rest of the car harnesses?

 

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

Haven't updated this is a while.

-5 speed conversion is done.

Then center console, parking brake handle, and mounting bracket can be adapted from a R34 since the S2 parts are all disco. Console is a slightly different grain pattern and color but works fine.

R33/ R34 GTS (no booster) clutch pedal works as well as the matching master cylinder.

Wiring is simple, jump the starter connector at the fuse box, note which wires are connected at which position on the auto neutral safety switch and cut off the switch harness and connect to the corresponding switch on the 5 speed.

-Rear R34 rear subframe swap is completed.

Full Nismo arm set, 2-way LSD set up soft, 322mm Brembo brakes, Ohlins Flag-R coil overs (need to drop the spring rate 1Kg)

-RB swap is under way.

HKS Step 2 High Response 2.8 BCD stroker kit / Step 2 V-Cam / GTIII 4R Kit

I may not use the 4R kit but not sure yet as I've seen some pretty decent dyno sheets on it and it doesn't spool as slow as people think when you have v-cam.

I have the wiring manual for the car and a spare 260RS harness so the wiring shouldn't be that bad but I just haven't had the time to invest in it. If anyone has a suggestion for someone who can handle it let me know!

I have a bunch of spare 5mt swap parts and some Nismo 580 turbos if anyone needs/wants them hit me up. Located in California but willing to ship.

As always, thanks to all the members who have answered my questions and helped this project keep moving!

 

 

 

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Congrats on the progress. That's got to feel good to get the build done/mostly done.

Now that you're this deep into it, I'm curious if you'd do it again versus finding a 5MT from the get go?

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Any pics of that R34 console conversion?  I've been thinking this would be close, but if you have pics, that's easier than going to bother the local guy with an R34.

You won't believe this, but I'm building your twin in Florida!

image.thumb.jpeg.b3b62b24ef10f77e197fac20d45541f9.jpeg

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Post 2 in this thread is my C34 with a R34 manual console, you can see it is a tiny bit different but not noticeable, and clips straight in.

Only issue is you have to move the g sensor a little with the manual console.

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  • 3 weeks later...

@Kip It is nice seeing the finish line in sight finally. Unfortunately when I imported it the 99' 5mt RS4S cars weren't legal here and a 260RS was out of my price range. Honesty the 5mt swap wasn't hard itself, it was just sourcing all the parts.

@epstein Duncan is the one that actually gave me the info on the R34 console. I used a GRID digital G-sensor and mounted it on the underside of the factory g-sensor bracket and it cleared the pocket in the center console.

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On 6/10/2024 at 10:54 AM, Chi-Town said:

@Kip It is nice seeing the finish line in sight finally. Unfortunately when I imported it the 99' 5mt RS4S cars weren't legal here and a 260RS was out of my price range. Honesty the 5mt swap wasn't hard itself, it was just sourcing all the parts.

Yeah. Seeing the finish line must be quite the motivation. Good on you for sticking with it.

Understood about the model choice. Also, totally get the challenge with sourcing parts. Based on your handle, I'm just a few hours south of you. All the little things I've bought so far come with $30 shipping, even if it's just stickers for the boot!

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