Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

having a problem with a r33 96 v spec gtr, two workshops have looked into this and given up,

problems is or was at first that whenever we broke traction like even just a little bit on a gravel driveway or in the wet the 4wd and a-lsd lights would come on???? the car seemed to be fine still in 4wd mode and all???

to complicate things furtrher now the lights dont come on when we brake traction so we have difficulty showing anyone, they now generally come on after the car has been driven reasonably and then after its left running for a minute sitting still!!!!! they dont go off again until the car is turned off and re started!!!!

****IN givin me the shits!!!

we are running a microtech ecu.....

since the car still mechanically seems to be working properly, id say it is a electronic problem

check the fuses, then get the attessa pro computer checked out aswell (maybe swap with one to c if its the problem)

ok,

no the car has never been in an accidednt and no mechanics can find any serious damage.

the car has about 30 k on the clock , but being an import??? but the car is in good nick.

the lights are now coming on after the car has been driven and if its then left running and stationary, like at the traffic lights or something. the lights stay on until the car is switched off and started again.

so you have seen this before then Lal??? what did people do to fix it???

Im unsure if its the same in the R33's, but in the R32 the ATTESSA control box is in the boot (open the boot then look on the roof of the boot and theres a few boxes). Theres a silver one with a LED on the bottom of it. This is the control box, if theres an error with attessa it will flash a fault code (when the lights come on, pull over, dont turn the car off and check what its flashing).

Have you checked the transfer case fluid levels and the attessa fluid levels? Mine was running low and this caused havoc on my car... but once again its a 32 not 33.

i fixed it myself, got some help at sendai drags when i was back there...

in the boot there are fuses all over the place..

on the MIDDLE SET OF ROWS the SECOND fuse going DOWN pull that out.. then try to turn your car on.. it wont turn on . then put the fuse back on then turn it on.. and see how you go from there. this usualy fixes it..

Why not just AXE the ATTESSA and buy a replacement bar from me, then pull the globes from the annoying warning lights.

 

No ATTESSA, no problem...works for me on the track.

dude i think that's hicas u mean...the whole reason u buy a GTR is because of ATTESSA

i''ll probably check the fluid levels and the fuses 1st. not sure how to get the car to diagnose attessa problem codes but if you had a mechanic with a Nissan consult near you that'd help.

might be the clutch pack that activates the attessa is worn or spoilt or something.

get on the internet to find out...i found out how to get the hicas to flash problem codes from the net...i'm sure melb has some good GTR mechanics out there like the guy who used to tune the GTRs that ran in Bathurst...but he's pricey.

geoff...yea i always find i have to correct and re-correct the car on a hard exit so i think a hicas lock would be good

LAL....

i'm looking at the fuses and i'm seeing a centre row of marked fuses, the third fuse down this row says 4wd-lsd which are the lights that are coming on so i'm gussing thhat this is the fuse you are talking about???? the 1st fuse says MAIN so i'm guessing its not that, the second one down says BLOWER so i'm guessing you mean the 3rd one down called 4wd-lsd?? i'll try this one, there is also a big blue fuse sitting by itself i dont what this does????

RB26dett i dont know what your talking about none of the computers in the back of my car have any LED on them and its a ATTESSA problem not a hicus problem, but thanks for the input, i'm not being sarcastic maybe your thinking of an r32???

cheers fellas,

On that note, im now starting to experiance problems with my attessa system. Its a 1992 R32 GTR (non v-spec). It still drives fine, not flashing any fault codes, but when im driving normally, its putting torque to the front wheels (goes upto 25) when it never used to (unless I was hammering it, it would stay rwd). Cruising along in 5th gear, even when I tap the throttle it goes up a little bit.

Any ideas?

tribex, when the 4wd light comes on does your car go into rwd mode only? From your original post, it sounds like it stays in 4wd mode but the light comes on. Usually light coming on means 4wd is disengaged...if this is the cash...try bleeding the system...air in the system causes this....hope this helps

No expert here.. so dont bag me if this sounds silly...

Do you have stocks wheels on your car? Are the Tyres exactly the same size allround?

I had a similar problem with my gtr when I fitted 19's to it.. problem was the rims were different, 275's at the back & 245's at the front, and the ATTESSA was sensing this as a loss of traction. I was also told that in the case you have major uneven tyre tread wear, the ATTESSA will sense this as loss of traction & the 4WD will light up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...