Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, well short story is I know here and there of a engine and cars etc., I know most that I can doing things by myself with constraints of budget limitations and also not being able to mess around to much on the cars I have around because 1 - no space or enough tools and 2 - there used as daily so I cant afford to strip and do whatever. So I thought id enrol in a mechanic course that has sufficient practicals and enough theory to teach me and help me go to the next step/level.

Anyway its going to be a bit difficult as I go to uni as well but I was hoping you guys could help me out and suggest a few courses that I can take that would be helpful before I get stuck into Google and search for things + im capped atm so it would be quicker for suggestions rather than wait 10 minutes for half a page appear. Im thinking a tafe course or something like that or along those lines? - links to anything good would be very helpful. I am in Liverpool area so the closer the better.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371706-mechanic-course/
Share on other sites

Unfortunately in the last decade or so TAFE has axed many of it's short courses that it was so famously adored for. I wanted to do a similar course as well as the Foundry/Intro to Casting course which I learned has recently been cut. It's a real damn shame, if you find a good course let us know....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371706-mechanic-course/#findComment-5927389
Share on other sites

dont bother with a TAFE course mate, most of the guys on here are backyard mechanics who started by reading around several forums, asking the tough (dumb) question and giving it a go themselves. 99% of a time you'll already find the answer to your question by using the search function on here (as well as google). pretty much all mechanics went to TAFE, and pretty much all mechanics are shit. theres a reason why they do 4 days a week at work and 1 at TAFE. to get the experience/confidence/knowledge first hand.

my suggestion would be to buy a motor - probably something like an rb30 (because they're really cheap and simple) and fit into a lot of different cars so you could always throw it into something if you ever got into track work. start a build thread, ask whatever you feel you need to get you started but common sense will prevail. a workshop manual will help a lot too (i can help with that).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371706-mechanic-course/#findComment-5927551
Share on other sites

dont bother with a TAFE course mate, most of the guys on here are backyard mechanics who started by reading around several forums, asking the tough (dumb) question and giving it a go themselves. 99% of a time you'll already find the answer to your question by using the search function on here (as well as google). pretty much all mechanics went to TAFE, and pretty much all mechanics are shit. theres a reason why they do 4 days a week at work and 1 at TAFE. to get the experience/confidence/knowledge first hand.

my suggestion would be to buy a motor - probably something like an rb30 (because they're really cheap and simple) and fit into a lot of different cars so you could always throw it into something if you ever got into track work. start a build thread, ask whatever you feel you need to get you started but common sense will prevail. a workshop manual will help a lot too (i can help with that).

bahahahahahahahaha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371706-mechanic-course/#findComment-5927735
Share on other sites

dont bother with a TAFE course mate, most of the guys on here are backyard mechanics who started by reading around several forums, asking the tough (dumb) question and giving it a go themselves. 99% of a time you'll already find the answer to your question by using the search function on here (as well as google). pretty much all mechanics went to TAFE, and pretty much all mechanics are shit. theres a reason why they do 4 days a week at work and 1 at TAFE. to get the experience/confidence/knowledge first hand.

my suggestion would be to buy a motor - probably something like an rb30 (because they're really cheap and simple) and fit into a lot of different cars so you could always throw it into something if you ever got into track work. start a build thread, ask whatever you feel you need to get you started but common sense will prevail. a workshop manual will help a lot too (i can help with that).

would love to do that man but thing is i dont have proper tools and biggest problem there is i dont have the sufficient space

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371706-mechanic-course/#findComment-5927900
Share on other sites

if you're keen enough you'll find a way. you only need a space of around 1m x 1m for an engine stand. put some planks of wood across the bottom of it and it doubles as a table.

when you bag and label all of the nuts, bolts and random pieces of engine you'll be able to store them in a box in your room. same goes for the head.

if you dont intend on buying tools then whats the point of you learning all this stuff?

Edited by SECURITY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371706-mechanic-course/#findComment-5927909
Share on other sites

Don't even have 1x1m, garage is full and shed is full, but your idea is great and I have thought about it before. I'm going try to build a shed out in the backyard or extended the current shed and do it in there (which iv been meaning to do), then get a engine and tools etc. But I was thinking before then is there any thing I can take which is for noobies and would benefit?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371706-mechanic-course/#findComment-5927911
Share on other sites

i think the best you'd get is a car maintenance course - things you'd do in a service + brakes.

with some common sense and a bit of research you'll be more than capable of doing these things yourself.

either way, the most essential tools you'd need are:

- 3/8" rachet set (preferably with a 1/4" adapter + sockets)

- pliers. long and short nose

- allen key set

- spanner set

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371706-mechanic-course/#findComment-5927921
Share on other sites

I want to do a similar thing mate, ie learn a lot of this mechanic-craft stuff. Have always figured I'd just wait till I have the garage room to strip a car down, buy something with a head gasket issue or big end fail and spend a ridiculously long amount of time slowly rebuilding it haha.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371706-mechanic-course/#findComment-5928051
Share on other sites

might see how things play out because there was a plus today - got a 92 maxima which is kinda having its time (but still runs) and when its out of rego it will be okay to strip etc.. so have the car, i might go bunnings tomorrow and check out some corrugated iron sheeting and some other things to fix up a shed in the backyard.

LOL @ that book

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371706-mechanic-course/#findComment-5929041
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...