Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know catch cans have been covered to death, and I have searched a few times and found some results, but not 100% what I'm looking for.

I've got an r32 rb20 with a eBay catch can. The can has two inlet/ outlets at the top, and A drain plug at the bottom.

My plan is to take the hose off the intake (just before afm) and plug it to the catch can, then take the other inlet/outlet and plug it back into the intake to relieve any pressure from crankcase etc (I noticed it makes a fair bit of vacuum)

Then to recirculate the can I'm going to weld on a piece of alloy pipe on the drain at the bottom of the can, and then clamp a hose from that to the port where my dipstick is.

Can anyone see a problem I'm missing? I know the can will catch f**k all, but I like the idea of having it 1) legal and 2) maintenance free. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372399-return-flow-catch-can-rb20/
Share on other sites

For a plumbed back setup put the catch can inline with the exh. cam cover and the intake.

i.e. the breathers go intake cover > exhaust cover > catch can > intake pipe (between afm and turbo)

If you want to have it *reasonably* maintenance free then you need to run a 2 stage system with a catch can and then an oil/separator which is then plumbed back to the intake pipe.

For a plumbed back setup put the catch can inline with the exh. cam cover and the intake.

i.e. the breathers go intake cover > exhaust cover > catch can > intake pipe (between afm and turbo)

If you want to have it *reasonably* maintenance free then you need to run a 2 stage system with a catch can and then an oil/separator which is then plumbed back to the intake pipe.

breathers - intake/exh valve covers - catch can - intake pipe. how is this return flow? I dont just want the can 'sealed' i want the oil in the catch can to be put back into the system.

oil seperator? if its plumbing into the intake pipe, thats all well and good, but where can i tap into to allow the oil from the can to drain back into the oil system of the car?

Surely someone out there must have this set up on an rb20... does anyone know if its ok for me to tap back into the sump/oil filler neck? this will effectivley relieve all pressure from the oil system as i have a hose going from the catch can to the intake pipe before turbo.

cheers

I was thinking about this too but was worried it may affect oil pressure. There are specific products that do what you want but they are not an empty can.

maybe you can adapt your ebay can.

http://www.cfpfilters.com/downloads/product_info/Mann/provent.pdf

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/engine/rb26dett.html

Some of the ones ive seen use the dipstick as the return to the sump.

I was thinking about this too but was worried it may affect oil pressure. There are specific products that do what you want but they are not an empty can.

maybe you can adapt your ebay can.

http://www.cfpfilter...ann/provent.pdf

http://www.nismo.co....e/rb26dett.html

Some of the ones ive seen use the dipstick as the return to the sump.

thankyou for your help!

yeh, ive heard that you can use your dipstick as a return, but i tried this and my problem was the catch can was under vaccuum, so when i connected it to the dip stick pipe the can had no where to breathe and made the engine give this horrible squeek (sounded bad so i disconnected it straight away)

so now im thinking make a drain at the bottom of the can go to dip stick pipe.

then have the hose taken off the rubber intake pipe and put onto the catch can.

then have another hose going from the other inlet/outlet to the intake pipe for breathing (vaccuum release)

but as you said, ill be essentially venting my oil system to atmosphere, so i dont know how that will go with oil pressure.....

im going to take my dip stick out and start the car and watch the pressure etc, if it sits on 0 theres obviously a problem. But after some research ( my skyline gauge usually reads 4kg cm2 which = 30-40psi or something similar, cant remember exactly) if the dipstick is pressurised to that amount why doesnt it pop off? its only sitting there!? all i can think of is theres some sort of one way valve that as soon as the oil system builds pressure, it blocks entry to the oil system via the dip stick....

this would be ok because it would mean as soon as you turn your car off the oil will drain back, and even in 6-7-8 hours of continous driving (eg long trips) id be confident in saying theres no way my car would fill the can (500ml) + the dip stick pipe.

hope im making sense.....? replies would be great! (maybe mods - mechanics out there?)

Are you venting to atmosphere?

I think you need to do a little more research.. there is many threads on here about this type of thing..

What I was trying to point out to you is that if you want a "maintenance free" system (meaning it automatically drains back to the sump) then you need to run a two stage system if NOT venting to atmo. The first stage is a "catch can" which vents into an "oil/air separator" and then plumbs the vent back into the intake.

The "catch can" can have a drain back to the sump (or via dipstick) but I would be more inclined to put a T and a ball valve in the dipstick line, run one hose to the top of the catch can as a vent and have the valve opening this way normally. Then have a drain from the bottom of the catch can to the ball valve so that when you want to empty the catch can back into the sump you open the valve.

Personally, my setup is atmo with each cam breather and dipstick going to the catch can and I don't drain it back to the sump.

Are you venting to atmosphere?

I think you need to do a little more research.. there is many threads on here about this type of thing..

What I was trying to point out to you is that if you want a "maintenance free" system (meaning it automatically drains back to the sump) then you need to run a two stage system if NOT venting to atmo. The first stage is a "catch can" which vents into an "oil/air separator" and then plumbs the vent back into the intake.

The "catch can" can have a drain back to the sump (or via dipstick) but I would be more inclined to put a T and a ball valve in the dipstick line, run one hose to the top of the catch can as a vent and have the valve opening this way normally. Then have a drain from the bottom of the catch can to the ball valve so that when you want to empty the catch can back into the sump you open the valve.

Personally, my setup is atmo with each cam breather and dipstick going to the catch can and I don't drain it back to the sump.

as written above, one hose going from valve covers, to catch can, the other hose going from catch can to intake pipe.

I can weld on a fitting at the bottom of the catch can to allow for the return, but i have no idea where to get the dip stick return things.....

any problems with oil pressure?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
×
×
  • Create New...