Jump to content
SAU Community

Apexi Power Fc D-Jetro, Hand Controller (Commander), Map Sensors And Harness, Greddy Switching Unit

Rob260
 Share

Recommended Posts

Rob260 Community Regular

Rob260

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys, selling the Power FC setup that was used with my big Z32 motor.

  • Replaces AFM with MAP sensors
  • Allows 20x20 mapping
  • Currently tuned for Nismo 740 injectors

All sensors, wiring harness and plugs are (included as pictured below) ready to fit.

ecua.jpg

plugsp.jpg

The hand controller can be used for tuning, and also displays the following

InjDuty - Injector Duty / How busy the injectors are

IgnTmng - Ignition Timing - Camshaft timing

AirFlow - Airflow meter voltage

PimVolt - Map Sensor voltage

Eng Rev - Engine revs

Speed - Road speed

Boost - Boost Pressure (requires optional boost kit fitted)

Knock - Knock sensor reading

WtrTemp - Water temperature or engine temperature

AirTemp - Air inlet temperature

BatVolt - Battery voltage

The hand controller also records maximum readings, so you can review max water temps/injector cycle/air inlet temps/knock numbers etc after a drive. I have found this feature particularly useful.

Also included in the sale is a Greddy multi switching unit. This was used to run the VTC on my VG30DETT, and the second output was used to run a thermofan. The Greddy is a two channel arming switch that can operate on anything from one to three paramters via the factory ECU or via external sensors. It can also function as an alarm/warning unit. This would suit someone wanting to run thermo fans, water/meth injection, nitrous, whatever...

greddy.jpg

Price: $1800 the lot, including freight, or best offer

Location: Sydney (North)

Condition: As New

Rob260 Community Regular

Rob260

Posted
  • Author
Posted

sell power fc seperately? msg me on 0423 441 677

Hi, yes I would consider separating -hit me up with an offer.

Rob260 Community Regular

Rob260

Posted
  • Author
Posted

????????

Just wrote back to your PM.

Considering the standard power FC's seem to go for around $1200 I'm not keen on letting the D-Jetro go for $1100... but thanks for the offer.

  • 2 weeks later...
Rob260 Community Regular

Rob260

Posted
  • Author
Posted

A change of plans means asking price down to $1200 THE LOT. Sell the Greddy and make some money back...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • wizlb
      Flex Fuel Kit Workshop

      By wizlb · Posted

      Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • Piggaz
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By Piggaz · Posted

      I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...