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i've got an 18v hitachi cordless rattle gun but it doesn't have enough balls, also tried using a cheapo air rattle gun running off my pissy little $150 air compressor but again not enough balls.

trying to change the crank angle sensor on my dads vx commo but cant get the bolt off for the harmonic balancer, if anyone can help plz msg me on 0430 500 276 - will hook u up with some beers for helping :)

tried a solid ratchet bar and mass leverage? or is it auto? i have a 18v makita one but i doubt it'd be any better than the hitachi

yeah its auto

Unplug the coil pack harness and put a beaker on the bolt and hard up against the frame and give it a very quick crank, that will get the sucker off

yeah i searched google and a few people have mentioned this method, think ill keep this as a last resort haha, coz how do u tighten it back up, obviously with a rattle gun but if it doesn't have enough torque to loosen it it may not have enough to tighten it up?

im actually workin out at cummins today (good timing!) one of the boys is lettin me borow his snapon 1/2inch cordless which is an absolute beast compared to the hitachi. got a long breaker bar too just incase.

Did you manage to Get the bolt Undone? Done A million and 1 crank angle sensors over the years i worked at holden and i can vouch that placing a bar and levering it off the Ground works best as you dont damage the chassis rail (chipped paint and dents etc). let me know how you get on with it

yeah went great, borrowed a long breaker bar which reached the floor, came off first crank. Yeah i didnt really wanna go off the chassis if i were gonna be using the breaker bar i wanted to atleast do it properly.

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  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
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