Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can either turn the unit off by holding the mode button (if I remember correctly) or you can adjust the gain of SP1 (or SP2 or SP3, whichever suits you. SP1 is the default setting everytime you turn the car off and turn it back on) to 0 :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373159-eboost/#findComment-5953516
Share on other sites

It should just turn on when you take your keys aout and put it back in. The settings should alls till be there, as when you turn it off, you only power it off, not erase the memory.

I've unplugged mine heaps of times and it still keeps my settings :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373159-eboost/#findComment-5958476
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=e-Boost1+(2002-05)+-+Complete+User+Manual

Was this a reply to my question? Sorry mate theres no information about actually turning off the sound at start up. There is information about turning off alarms at revs and boost pressures. Good try mate and thanks for your help. If anyone else has anything constructive would be muchly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373159-eboost/#findComment-6143270
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
×
×
  • Create New...