Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Won't Start

Yelogtr

By Yelogtr,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Yelogtr Apprentice

Yelogtr

Posted
Posted

Hey,

I have an R32 GTR, recently replaced the battery due to starting problems. This fixed the issue for a while but am having dramas again:

1. I started my car after work to drive home, it started fine but none of the electrics (tail lights, interior lights etc) worked for the entire drive home.

2. A couple of weeks ago i charged the battery and it started fine.

3. This weekend It started with the help of a jump start, however I tried it again today and it started but as soon as the leads were disconnected the car died.

4. I put the battery charger on the battery whilst in the car but it wouldnt charge at all, the light came on to say the charger is on but the charge light wouldn't light up.

5. I put the battery charger on the battery whilst out of the car and the charger said the battery is fully charged.

6. I've checked all the fuses and they are all good.

I'm thinking the alternator is probably stuffed and maybe even the new battery aswell. Any help would be greatly appreciated and if anyone has any auto sparkies they could recommend SOR.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374717-gtr-wont-start/
Share on other sites
Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted (edited)

sounds like you have a broken wire on the main harness into the car. or main fuse/fusable link fried.

possible ground issues as well

and a good possibilty of a fried diode pack in the alternator.

get a volt meter,

battery voltage engine off

battery voltage if the engine is running if you can without jumpers on another car/ battery start pack is ok

check the grounds on the frame to battery, and to engine

are the connections tight and clean on the battery.

can you get a load test done on the battery ?

check fuses and links to the main power harness , the jump start may have killed them. ?

you have mutiple problems but start with the battery and some voltage readings

. a full charge doenst mean it has "current/ AMP" drawing power under load it might be dead. but charges to 12 volts still

Edited by sapphiregraphics
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374717-gtr-wont-start/#findComment-5977123
Share on other sites
Yelogtr Apprentice

Yelogtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm thinking it's more like battery and/or alternator because the car runs with jumper leads to another car. If it were any of those other issues (ie broken wires, main fuse etc) would the car still run with the leads connected?

Thanks for your help mate, I'll get the voltmeter out later in the week.

Cheers,

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374717-gtr-wont-start/#findComment-5977300
Share on other sites
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

two fusible links on the battery - check both. if one is broke then SOME of the items work. surprised that you didn't have lights going off in the dash.

as troy said multiple issues. address each one first before putting a blanket patch on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374717-gtr-wont-start/#findComment-5977454
Share on other sites
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

Hey,

I have an R32 GTR, recently replaced the battery due to starting problems. This fixed the issue for a while but am having dramas again:

1. I started my car after work to drive home, it started fine but none of the electrics (tail lights, interior lights etc) worked for the entire drive home.

fusible link on the battery. check both.

2. A couple of weeks ago i charged the battery and it started fine.

doesn't mean anything. battery could have been just about at the end of its life. that would have finished it off.

3. This weekend It started with the help of a jump start, however I tried it again today and it started but as soon as the leads were disconnected the car died.

alternator is toast OR battery was simply too flat to 'start' the alternator. I'm leaning on a dead alternator myself.

4. I put the battery charger on the battery whilst in the car but it wouldnt charge at all, the light came on to say the charger is on but the charge light wouldn't light up.

battery is FUBAR..

5. I put the battery charger on the battery whilst out of the car and the charger said the battery is fully charged.

6. I've checked all the fuses and they are all good.

I'm thinking the alternator is probably stuffed and maybe even the new battery aswell. Any help would be greatly appreciated and if anyone has any auto sparkies they could recommend SOR.

Cheers.

see point 5. good sparky can sort the lot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374717-gtr-wont-start/#findComment-5977612
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...