Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so i have full 3inch exhaust, turbosmart manual boost controller, fmic, auto meter liquid filled boost guage and splitfire coils. i have my boost T going from actuator to fmic plumbed into the bottom pipe of the 2 intercooler pipes. The other pipe that goes to plumbback pipe is blocked off.

My question is that my boost keeps changing ranging from as low as 5 psi up to 11 psi i would like it to stay around 10 psi dont mind little creep. i have done the tuning thing with my boost guage and set it to 10 psi and then later on it will change and change through out the day. Im not sure what it is because if it is set up properly my boost should hold 10 psi all the time right? doesnt matter about if its cold or hot because the same amount of air is being pressurised and bleed off right?

and im not talking about spiking and then setteling like bleed valves do somtimes, its when i hold my foot down that i take my boost reading.

Any ideas and help would be much appreciated :)

cheers Kurt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374867-boost-issue-yes-another/
Share on other sites

"i have my boost T going from actuator to fmic plumbed into the bottom pipe of the 2 intercooler pipes" man wtf does that mean ? re read it yourself

are you tryin to say the boost tap is plumbed in a line from the ic pipe to the actuator ?

what car is it ? what turbo ?

have you removed the factory solenoid?

"i have my boost T going from actuator to fmic plumbed into the bottom pipe of the 2 intercooler pipes" man wtf does that mean ? re read it yourself

are you tryin to say the boost tap is plumbed in a line from the ic pipe to the actuator ?

what car is it ? what turbo ?

have you removed the factory solenoid?

ok its rb25det r33 series 2 stock turbo

sorry my bad got my words mixed up so i have my boost t in between the wastgate actuator and is then plumbed into my intake intercooler pipe from the turbo... the bottom one, i have the factory solonoid just sitting their with no pipes but still has electrics connected.

cheers

I also had this exact problem with a manual turbosmart controller. I never ended up fixing it unfortunately I just went back to the stock solenoid with the permanent high boost mode and due to the fmic it constantly sits on about 9psi with no realll hesitation like I did with the manual controller. Maybe give that a go if u can't ever figure it out?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...