Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 182
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

back seats fold down in accord :P

but I understand the mazda is more a young persons car, its very trendy these days..we cop some flac for having an old peoples car but its a dream to drive and was owned by a grandpa churchgoer before us..the stereo was disconnected due to his religous beliefs...

Had a look at the accord, the v shape of the hole between the boot and the backseat made the hole not big enough to fit Annas makeup chair through it. The only thing on our list that did fit her stuff easily was a mazda 3 so it looks like some form of Mazda 3 will end up in the garage.

haha..yeah I wasnt actually serious man...

It was looking good unti lthe v shape! The boot was plenty big, and it was parked next to the 3 so it didnt hurt to look lol

have you looked at the mondeo hatch?? diesel is great 5.7 l/100km boot is 816 litres or thereabouts. and yes resale is not the best when new but bargain for a three year old car.

I will have a look now

v shape? What sort of accord was it?

iono haonda accord euro sedan of some sort, the port between the boot and the back seats was wider at the top than at the bottom. made it a bit useless for putting big stuff through, apart from that is was a nice car.

Whats the reliability like? What ever car we get will be doing a lot of short trips around town for Annas business. Her being able to jump in it and get where she is going everytime is really important too.

If driven hard things wear but, thats normal for anything.

Very reliable. There are a few things that go wrong that are common to the car. The issues are well known and aren't hideous to fix cost or time wise.

I use mine for work and clock plenty of kms on it without trouble.

The service message is an easy reset. Just hold the button on the washer stalk as you turn on the ignition. Then press the odo reset and your done.

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm in the market for a new car in the sub $40k bracket, and the XR5, 3MPS, GTI and the new WRX sedan were the cars I was going to check out. Any others worth having a look at? The Megane interests me but its french and a bit out of my price range. Not sure what else is out there though. Any other suggestions?

  • 3 weeks later...

Finally found our car, Mazda 3 SP23. Anna is happy, all her make up stuff fits, It has aircon and it has a radio so she says for her purposes it is already far ahead of the GTR! lol. I dont mind it as a daily either, comfy, handles well and isnt a slug.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...