Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Start the car and see if the powersteering goes nuts.

If so, it is the powersteer solenoid on the rack. Have done this myself.

You lifted the motor out of the donor car (or your own) without unplugging the rack and it ripped the plug out.

We pulled my old engine out and the guys cut off the two knock sensors and this other plug which is highlighted in red cause they couldnt get them off.

They were able to use the two knock sensors plugs off my donor engines wiring loom but it didnt have this one.

If you know what this is, it'll solve the problem. I havent got all the wiring loom connected to test the gauges yet, still have other parts to install.

post-59566-0-34763200-1314185539_thumb.jpg

My first guess was oil pressure sender, but all my mechanic said over the phone was its located above the oil filter on the block under the inlet manifold, the above picture is what I'm guessing he's on about as its not the knock sensors.

Yeh found out it was the air regulator thats tucked up under the intake plenum.

Anyone know where you can purchase the connectors as the old ones still on my old engine block which was stripped to make a coffee table??

Thanks for the help guys...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea my thought was tighter engine when hot is more load a poor ground connection can't take. On that note, I had time to check my driveshaft verical alignment tonight, it's +2 and -2 at either end, so thats perfect and how I had set it up last year. What would be the easiest way to check horizontal alignment between my diff and transmission? I can think of a few ways but they're all complicated and I feel like I'm overthinking it. I'm hoping it's that as I can't see any other reason why I have developed driveline vibration since I put the motor back in. 
    • Thank god. I thought I was the only one, nobody seems to mention this (cause nobody really goes this far in Sedan land). The car's track is 10mm wider at the rear, which explains why the rears sit a little further out for the same size wheels. There's not really many options in widebody land for sedans anyway - People will just use whatever came out of the box and then buy wheels/spacers to suit. To get it perfect you'll likely need custom wheels with custom offsets if you really want to get it perfect which is what I plan to do, but I also plan to utilize more of the inboard space for tyres at the rear... which is also something nobody ever seems to do.... OR my maths have failed me after 20,000 attempts and I'm about to make huge mistakes. 
    • What colour is that?  A mate of mine went red/black on his SLR5000 tribute recently also.  And yes, also glad to see this still progressing albeit slowly. 
    • found a company that makes a flat gauge face 3-d printed mounting base kit to eliminate the dished style gauges. if anyone else is looking to do the same https://www.dashfreaks.de/shop/flat-dials-holder-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-gtt/    
    • I installed my link ecu shortly after. But car ran fine with stock ecu and r35 coils, just had the traction control and slip lights on.
×
×
  • Create New...