Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale is my new unused rb26/30 built this for my daily but lost my licence so no longer need it located in Hobart Tasmania but can send anywhere in Australia cheaply

Rb30 vl block

Chemically cleaned

Resprayed black

Tapped for gtr head studs

Decked

Bored 40 thou

Torque plate honed

Rb26 head reconditioned completely by Lewis race engines sydney

Acl steel head gasket

Tomei metal intake gaskets

Complete rb26 plenum and throttles

Arp head bolts

Hastings chromolly piston rings

New oversized pistons

H beam conrods

Arp conrod bolts

Acl bearings

Balanced crank

Jun crank cooler

Crank grub screwed

Rb25 oil pump

New front and rear main seals

Gates timing belt

Chemically cleaned rb26 cam cover set with speedflow fittings fitted to the creatures

Cost over $6000 to build after $4000 Ono need a fast sale to fund my main project please email [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376137-fs-rb-2630/
Share on other sites

It was for a vl commodore to replace the rb30et and if I separate the head $1500 it cost $1800 - $2000 plus postage from Lewis engines from memory pm me numbers and i ring people that are interested must be sold in the next couple of days

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376137-fs-rb-2630/#findComment-5999815
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...