Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I currently have a R33 GTS T series 1 and I want to buy another 2.5T engine to drop in temporarily while I rebuild the original engine. When I get the temporary engine I just want to drop it in with no hassles (no wiring hassles or hassles with power steer, a/c etc).

Does it matter whether it's a series 1 or series 2 engine ????

Are there any major differences between series 1 and series 2 that could make things difficult ??????

I've found an engine locally at Newcastle (3 to choose) from which are complete with turbo, manifolds, throttle body, coil packs and crank angle sensor for $2600.00. Is that a good price ???

Your opinions are appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37645-r33-series-1-or-series-2-rb25det/
Share on other sites

Predator thanks for that. I have found a series 2 engine (1997) complete for 2K. That's complete wiring loom all manifolds turbo etc. A couple of people told me that it should be Ok as long as I leave the fuel rail, injectors and series 1 wiring loom and the series 1 coil packs. Wonder if that that will work ?????

predator,

hey..by wat u r saying, would a series 2 engine have the mounts for the igniter pack?

jay51 has seen my car and engine..it is a series 1, but he says my igniter pack is not on top of the plastic cover....but i have the mounts for the igniter pack. does this mean my engine is a series 2? or just a series 1?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...