Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I'm Dan.

Recently bought MR30 Hatch, really like it. Not many around Brissy.

I want to upgrade the brakes and suspension.

Suspension will be King Lows, with struts to match (have pedders for front, some yellow things for the back)

Brakes are ok for a daily work car, but after a few heavy stops it fades pretty bad. Have had fluids flushed and changed to Nulon DOT4, seemed to make a very small difference.

The L24 is going to be turbo oneday soon (have bout all the parts, just need to lock or limit the dissy to stop it advancing)

I have read about import struts and R32 this and that. Its all too expensive for me (im on $400 a week) Plus im not the most mechanical minded, have limited tools and stuff. Still learning as I go.

Im thinking some slotted/vented disks, uprated pads (like the EBC red or green pads off ebay.uk) and stainless/braided brake lines would be an improvement?

Has anyone undertaken a 'factory' type brake upgrade like this before? I have contacted a few places but they all ask for the MR30 disk DIA, which I dont know.

Would it be better to upgrade to R31 disks and calipers? I have read previous topics but there didnt seem to be a conclusive answer.

(Also, part number for standard aus R31 pads is DB1105, but DB1085 is the equivalent part and is a commodore pad. And being a commodore pad there is a MASSIVE range of pads available)

Can also use 'RB74' but they have many reviews of ALOT of brake dust (I wash at least weekly so thats not too bad)

I have seen R31 setups go for $150, which seems pretty good.

.

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=Brake_Upgrades_Miscellaneous

Finally, If the R31 pads and the R30 pads are similar/same, does this mean the upgraded pads for the R31 will fit the R30 caliper?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377134-mr30-brake-questions/
Share on other sites

Quick note:

Aus MR30 Disks

http://www.dba.com.au/products/dba317sl $249 each

Aus R31 Disks

http://www.dba.com.au/products/DBA615SL $149 each (plus $30 shipping)

Bendix Ultimate Pads have been reccomended for the R31 calipers, at approx $130 for L & R front. (Also dont forget the

Looks like going to R31 is a better idea even based on cost of replaceing components ($200 saving just on disks)

Ebay has a few sellers that seem ok:

EBC Green Pads R31

Also note:

R31 wheel bearings part No. K1168 R31 Bearings

R30 wheel bearings part No. K1145 R30 Bearings

Both $43 posted (seems a bit much)

I am looking at picking up a set of struts this weekend to test if the components fit the R30, I will let you know what happens.

good point about the overall cost of replacement parts too. Didnt even think of that!

I was at one point looking at Commodore Caliper and 'insert unknown' deisks, just it was too much fugging around to get the right disk. Commo parts are cheap as too...

AND let me say ................... No modification is cheap if done right the first time around.

Bang for your buck ............ the VT Commodore front conversion is the best your going to get and you get a 2 spot caliper to boot, but the initial outlay can be a bit costly unless you have free access to a reasonable machine shop, or are prepared to pay to get the machining done.

There is DR, but DR30 front struts have to be sourced and new discs are nearly impossible to find and DBA have ceased production.

And you don't need to do anything, but change to good quality brake pads that are g'teed to at least 550 degrees.

D

I cant see how Commo conversion is going to be cheap as there is no info on what the actual parts required. It will have to be trial and error, then wasting money on hub coversion to suit disks which havent been proven to work!

Anyone have actual info or is it all just too hard on this forum!

u can do the s13 upgrade 4 cheap, do a search, fairly easy and cheap, you gain 4 pots and heaps of options of rotors to use, if yopu dont wanna do that try find sum dr or hr struts (100mm brake spacing) and have them modded to suit coilover, k sport do a cheap kit, didi it to a mates, works fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...