Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

33 S1 manual sedan.

You turn the key to crank it, and nothing. Dash lights on, AFCR comes on, fuel pump primes etc. Starter motor doesn't even give it a shot.

Battery is new, and vehicle started on it till now.

Checked starter fuse, it's fine.

Checked battery voltage, it's fine. voltage at engine bay fusebox is fine. Voltage at starter motor is fine. Checked continuity on starter motor earth, it's fine.

With ignition on, immobilizer off, I bridged the starter motor and it spins like mad, but doesn't start the car.

Vehicle roll starts.

Anyone have any ideas? I searched, buy nothing relevant to starter motor not even cranking came up!

Cheers

Edited by Glavas
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378326-33-wont-start/
Share on other sites

Sounds like the solenoid isn't engaging. Try giving it a whack with a hammer. Try applying battery voltage direct to the solenoid pin.

Sorry forgot to list that, I hit it with the hammer, nothing. I bridged the 12v to the soilenoid and it spins up, but still won't start the car even with the ignition on :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378326-33-wont-start/#findComment-6033100
Share on other sites

So the starter motor spins, but doesn't appear to engage and turn the engine. ??

That would suggest that the flyout gear isn't flying out to engage the flywheel. Might just need a clean out, which is a "remove starter motor" job.

Otherwise, the immobiliser is actually still ON, and is immobilising the ignition.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378326-33-wont-start/#findComment-6034073
Share on other sites

So the starter motor spins, but doesn't appear to engage and turn the engine. ??

That would suggest that the flyout gear isn't flying out to engage the flywheel. Might just need a clean out, which is a "remove starter motor" job.

Otherwise, the immobiliser is actually still ON, and is immobilising the ignition.

Yeah leaning towards that. Worst thing is I'm an apprentice mechanic lol. gonna rip the starter out and strip it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378326-33-wont-start/#findComment-6034269
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...