Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guy'z

I want to get new seats in my r34 but don't know much about racing seats for on road use

I was thinking about somthing like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BN-JTM-PAIR-WHITE-RACING-SPORT-SEATS-ADR-APPROVAL-/260812629658?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb9a4e69a#ht_5788wt_911

... would them seats be street legal in a 2door 34 ? ..

Any info would be good

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378484-r34-racing-seats/
Share on other sites

Just keep in mind that there is absolutely zero chance of those rails fitting your car. So you will need to buy some Bride or Recaro rails as well, which are $500+ a set unless you can find them second-hand.

and those seats are utterly fugly, not that I would trust them as far as safety goes either...

if you want adr approved get some 34gtr seats or be prepared to pay for quality, the eghey seats you linked are not quality...

Lol, not everyone can afford a GTR or willing to spend their life savings on a GTR lol.

Back on the topic, I'm pretty sure that any of the aftermarket seats that you buy will need rails.

Rails can be expensive, but if you are lucky, you can pick them up 2nd hand for $100-150 ea.

As for seats, I've got a Bride style one in my car, pretty comfy and huggy, no complaints, bought it for $300 brand new lol and got given rails by a mate.

Lol, not everyone can afford a GTR or willing to spend their life savings on a GTR lol.

Back on the topic, I'm pretty sure that any of the aftermarket seats that you buy will need rails.

Rails can be expensive, but if you are lucky, you can pick them up 2nd hand for $100-150 ea.

As for seats, I've got a Bride style one in my car, pretty comfy and huggy, no complaints, bought it for $300 brand new lol and got given rails by a mate.

Might be worth spilling where you got said Bride style seat for $300 from ;)

the drift blade seats are ADR approved and you can get rails for them. they are a copy of the r34 gtr seats.

using seats from other cars, (ie gtr seats into a gtt) is not adr approved. as they are not from that car, so you can be defected for it, along with if you have to modify the standard rails on them, unless ofc you get an engineers cert for them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...