Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

So i just brought a R33 GTST with a RB2530 in it, the wedge holding the harmonic balancer has come loose and stuffed the crank so im in the process of replacing the crank. have the other one getting balanced etc..

so before i started pulling everything down i had the motor at TDC, but after lossing the flywheel bolts i have turned the motor almost half a turn without realising.

THEN i removed the timing belt without marking it on the belt,crank or cam gears.

so now i have the belt off and the tdc markers on the cam gears facing: inlet: 4PM outlet: 8AM

just woundering if i should re install the belt?then turn the motor to TDC?

No need mate. There are dots you line up on the crank, and cam gears. Just line all the dots up and slip the belt on.

I urge you to check it 10 times and have a smart mate look and see if the dots line up good. I had my iPhone down there taking pics of the crank dot because you can't get your head down there to look at it straight on.

Once all the dots are lined up, slip the belt on and problem solved.

You shouldnt really use marks and hop it goes on in the same place anyway, that's just being hopeful, and not good practice.

If you are srtipping the motor why are you worried about TDC?

i am just changing the crank so i didnt want to pull the head apart. i guess ill take the rocket covers off and just put the cams at TDC before re instaling the crank.

so is there any marks on the crank for TDC?

do i use the key wedges for the pulleys or is there marks on the pulleys them selfs?

sorry for the noob questions just wanna make sure things are right,

thanks

DAN

Just use a dial indicator to find exact tdc with number 1 if you have one. Or use the marking on the timing gear to line up with the notch in the oil pump housing. Then use the cam gear dots to line up with the markings on the timing cover backing plate.

Usually tdc is is when the key slot for the woodruff key is facing up.

Or be dodgy like me and use a pen down the #1 plug hole to get it as close as possible and adjust to get everything lined up.

I dont suggest that method though...Dial gauge is much better

no need to take the rocker covers off, just leave the cam gears on and line the dots up to the marks on the rear timing cover. if you turn the crank roughly 60 degrees past tdc you can turn the cams without any risk of piston to valve contact

Whip the cams out and then spin the crank to your hearts content, that way while you are putting the engine back together you don't have to worry about any unforeseen piston on valve action.

Edited by D_Stirls

did your old rb30 crank have a collar fitted?

if so can you take pics of the snout of the crank of the new crank and the old one.

I might be able to pinpoint WHY this happened and save it from happening to you again a second time. Changing the crank and not investigating WHY it happened is not the right way to go about it if you don't want it to happen again.

let me know if you want my help.

thanks guys!

im getting my new crank back on wednesday, then ill get you some pics guilty.

what do you think could of been the cause?

Edited by BMYHOE

i have an idea.. and it happened to me before....

crank bolts DONT come lose on their own.

just make sure you send me the pics before you put it back together. pm me if i dont see them straight away.

thanks guys!

im getting my new crank back on wednesday, then ill get you some pics guilty.

what do you think could of been the cause?

Sorry mate been busy ...

this is the f'd crank

post-59990-0-37536900-1320148560_thumb.jpg post-59990-0-00373000-1320148636_thumb.jpg post-59990-0-28313800-1320148660_thumb.jpg

this is the new crank

post-59990-0-44339300-1320148739_thumb.jpg post-59990-0-15828100-1320148784_thumb.jpg

i didnt get any more pics of the new crank, hopefully that will help you.

we think that this was all caused by the harmonic balancer bolt coming loose..

Edited by BMYHOE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...