Jump to content
SAU Community

Replacing Broken Front Wheel Studs

Raven33
 Share

Recommended Posts

Raven33 Enthusiast

Raven33

Posted
Posted

I had intended to take photo's as I did the work, and write it up into a guide - but alas I was too focused to remember to grab the camera :whistling: (yeh focused, that's what I was)

So I had a broken wheel stud on the front drivers side wheel

- took the wheel off, removed the 2 18mm bolts that hold the calliper on

- removed the rotor and begun working on removing the broken stud

- I'd been told the basics behind removing the stud by a tyre monkey at Bob Jane T-Mart, as per his instructions got out the hammer and started banging away

- that sucker was in there tight, and not having a decent sized hammer was no doubt making things harder

- tried to get the WD40 working for me, but it didn't seem to be helping much...

Then the craziest thing happened .... I had an idea!!

What I wanted was to make the stud smaller than it was, and of course the best way to do that is to cool it down.

As the freezer wasn't an option, I started racking my brain for ways to cool the stud, but not the hub (i guess that's what it's called) - as I don't live in a science lab, there was no dry ice at hand.

But I did have the next best thing - a can of butane lighter fluid.

The liquid/gas will turn almost anything white with condensation on contact, it will also make most surfaces so cold, it will hiss and crackle when you touch it with your hand.

So I sprayed the damaged wheel stud with the butane, waited for a minute or so, then sprayed it again - just to make sure that it was cold all the way through.

After making sure there was no butane smell in the area where I was working, I gave the stud a half assed love tap and to my amazement the damn thing moved, another quick tap a little harder than the first and BAM stud is out - That was easy.

So the moral of this story is - if the big hard stud won't come out of the tight hard hole, give it a cold shower of butane :P

I hope this info is helpful to someone out there at some point.... else my puns were for nothing.

-Raven

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379797-replacing-broken-front-wheel-studs/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just_a_datsun
      RB26 block, rb26 head

      By Just_a_datsun · Posted

      Block bump. $400. As above cyl 6 needs bore or sleeve.
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I would think making the argument that the travel is limited by a spring flexing against a spring perch as "the same method". Later on in the document they do state that the spring can't bind on full bump travel and cannot come loose in full rebound travel as well. (which is all very sensible). The laws are actually pretty sensible and reasonable. It's just that the people who enforce and check them don't actually read them or know them accurately. "Oh, coilovers? Instant fail mate. Don't even need to look at it." - Guy who will be instantly reported by me. There is probably merit to people who do get defected for height also get defected for the suspension in that state that allows it. I did never consider the people who are complaining about coilovers being picked on are also running around at 50mm off the floor.
    • Kinkstaah
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think given SAU's knowledge of E85 we can strongly conclude that 10% ethanol in almost any situation is entirely fine. Almost all of the myths against E85 were overblown, let alone E10.
    • The Bogan
      Blue slip

      By The Bogan · Posted

      From your link See bold text, is this referring to damper settings, if so that may a issue for "some" inspectors, I cannot see aftermarket coilovers having the evidence that "must be available that its functional performance is equivalent to the original" Maybe just remove the adjustment knows and hope for the best???? Meh 5.2 Suspension travel In all instances, modifications to a vehicle’s suspension must ensure the integrity of the system and not compromise the ride quality. At least two thirds of the original suspension travel should be maintained in both directions (rebound (i.e. extension) and bump (i.e. compression)), and rebound must be limited by the same method used by the vehicle manufacturer or if this is not practicable due to the nature of the modification, an equivalent method. If an alternative method is used, evidence must be available that its functional performance is equivalent to the original.
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      They actually don't - They adhere to VSB14 rules just like Victoria. The rules are against CABIN adjustable height, and it quite clearly states that the height has to be within parameters. I asked the VASS engineer to confirm this when I got my car engineered and they refused to engineer the coilovers because they didn't meet the requirements for requiring engineering. (mine are height adjustable.) People "Not wanting to bother" with "Actually reading/knowing/adhering to the rules" should result in fines and immediately losing the ability to issue blue slips and/or RWC's in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...