Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

first things first I am a car enthusiast but not very mechanically minded. Actually not at all. So bear with me here

I went out to start my car (about 2 Months ago) and it just wouldnt start. The more i tried (only 3 times) the car would produce less and less of a result as in it would get as far into turning over to actually start. Now I wasn't able to have anyone look at it because i have Uni, full time work at 50+ hours a week and organising a wedding. Now the wedding is done and i finally got around to removing the battery and attempting to charge it. The charger thingy I bought says its full. My father in law also attempted to jump start it with one of those battery kick start things but also to no avail.

I am left with getting someone professionally to fix it but I was wondering if there is anything I have missed and also if anyone else has had this problem and if so how much did it cost to fix? I really want to get my baby back on the road so money isnt an issue but not being mechanically minded I would like to know what im in for.

Thanks for your help and sorry I sound like a useless pratt (cause i probably am)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380266-all-electronics-dead/
Share on other sites

Your best bet is to go out and get a new battery regardless of what your battery charger says. It has been two months since your original battery died and in most cases once this happens the battery is more than likely cactus.

If the new battery doesn't work then seek professional help.

Trying to start the car over and over will destroy the windings in the starter motor. If it doesnt turn over with the new battery, make sure the starter gets power. If it does you may have cooked the starter windings.

The initial reason for the trouble starting the car may be harder to diagnose. If you can check the error codes (a quick search will help) you may find the Crank sensor has failed as this is a fairly common problem. Do you hear the fuel pump prime?

Good luck, if you get out of your depth there will be someone who can recommend a local workshop able to help. (easier if you put your location in your profile.)

I can hear the line prime ok (according to the father in law) and I only tried to start it 3 times. After that it's just been sitting there.

I'm on the central coast of nsw so anyone who can help in the area you know of will be greatly appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...