Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally purchased my own TIG machine after borrowing one for a few months, so hopefully with time permitting i'll be able to get into making alot more stuff.

First up is the new exhaust manifold, after working with a mate at my other work we 3D modelled the 6 into 1 merge collector in Inventor. Split that down and make a flat template or the cuts for each collector.

unfortunately i didnt take pics along the way but with a hand grinder i've cut out and welded up the collector - its not perfect, unfortunately, but it should still flow much better than the china stainless manifold im using at the moment.

i'll work on making up a JIG to cut them out accurately when time permits. just had to test it out.

post-5157-0-15521100-1319338292_thumb.jpg

post-5157-0-70872700-1319338293_thumb.jpg

post-5157-0-31187500-1319338295_thumb.jpg

post-5157-0-46198800-1319338296_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380963-craveds-fabrication/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nice work Chris. Do you have a mill handy? When I made my collector I used an indexing head/chuck and angled the head whatever degree merge it was I wanted. Actually I think it was about half of what I wanted. Cant remember now lol.

What merge angle did you run with? Around 15-18 degrees?

Yeah I bought my tig 3 months ago and it's already paid for itself so I can see what you mean will be following this closely to see how it turns out cause u have inspired me :-)

once u make ur jig what do u plan on making the manifold out of ?

Just steam pipe?

Yeah would be interesting to see what sort of prices you have to pay to do it yourself ;-)

And is there any reason ur using butt joins instead of beveled? Would get a nicer stronger weld with beveled

But just curios not criticizing :-)

All the best with it

Yeah would be interesting to see what sort of prices you have to pay to do it yourself ;-)

And is there any reason ur using butt joins instead of beveled? Would get a nicer stronger weld with beveled

But just curios not criticizing :-)

All the best with it

Butt weld elbows are already beveled

as GTR81 said, the bends are bevelled, i'll prob radius the ends of the straight tube before i weld it up too

not sure when i'll get it finished, next step is working out where i want the turbo to sit. this will be going on my 26/30 which im still building so i'll have to find some references to help me position the turbo

trying to build it all out of the car then drop it all in in one go.

When I did mine, I tacked up the turbo flange with some rods to hold it where it needed to be so it cleared strut tower and what not when in the bat. Once that was done the rest was done out of the car on a dummy head. I did have to test fit it a few times during tacking of the runners to ensure clearance and whatnot, once that was good it was go for gold!

One thing I did learn was once you have everything tacked up and you are about to start welding it all, make sure you have a good solid base mounting plate for the head flange to bolt to so it doesnt want to warp. Say some 100x100x6mm wall. Then try and tig as much as you can while its all fully tacked up, except where it meets the flange and collector. Then break off the tacks holding the runners to the collector and flange and finish them off and then refit them and weld them on in such an order as you dont stuff yourself for access to other areas.

I may or may not have made some silly mistakes like that when I made mine, but hopefully you can learn from that!

Hopefully your manifold will turn out alot better then mine mate!

^^^^ some good ideas there r33 racer ...

Even tho you bolted the main flange down did it still warp a lil??? did u have to get I machined flat at all or we're u good to go ?

Do u u have pics mate ?

The more and more I talk with u boys bout it the more I wanna DO IT :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...