Jump to content
SAU Community

Craved's Fabrication

Craved

By Craved,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

Finally purchased my own TIG machine after borrowing one for a few months, so hopefully with time permitting i'll be able to get into making alot more stuff.

First up is the new exhaust manifold, after working with a mate at my other work we 3D modelled the 6 into 1 merge collector in Inventor. Split that down and make a flat template or the cuts for each collector.

unfortunately i didnt take pics along the way but with a hand grinder i've cut out and welded up the collector - its not perfect, unfortunately, but it should still flow much better than the china stainless manifold im using at the moment.

i'll work on making up a JIG to cut them out accurately when time permits. just had to test it out.

post-5157-0-15521100-1319338292_thumb.jpg

post-5157-0-70872700-1319338293_thumb.jpg

post-5157-0-31187500-1319338295_thumb.jpg

post-5157-0-46198800-1319338296_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380963-craveds-fabrication/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

Nice work Chris. Do you have a mill handy? When I made my collector I used an indexing head/chuck and angled the head whatever degree merge it was I wanted. Actually I think it was about half of what I wanted. Cant remember now lol.

What merge angle did you run with? Around 15-18 degrees?

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

Posted
Posted

Yeah I bought my tig 3 months ago and it's already paid for itself so I can see what you mean will be following this closely to see how it turns out cause u have inspired me :-)

once u make ur jig what do u plan on making the manifold out of ?

Just steam pipe?

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

Posted
Posted

Yeah would be interesting to see what sort of prices you have to pay to do it yourself ;-)

And is there any reason ur using butt joins instead of beveled? Would get a nicer stronger weld with beveled

But just curios not criticizing :-)

All the best with it

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah would be interesting to see what sort of prices you have to pay to do it yourself ;-)

And is there any reason ur using butt joins instead of beveled? Would get a nicer stronger weld with beveled

But just curios not criticizing :-)

All the best with it

Butt weld elbows are already beveled

as GTR81 said, the bends are bevelled, i'll prob radius the ends of the straight tube before i weld it up too

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
  • Author
Posted

not sure when i'll get it finished, next step is working out where i want the turbo to sit. this will be going on my 26/30 which im still building so i'll have to find some references to help me position the turbo

trying to build it all out of the car then drop it all in in one go.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

When I did mine, I tacked up the turbo flange with some rods to hold it where it needed to be so it cleared strut tower and what not when in the bat. Once that was done the rest was done out of the car on a dummy head. I did have to test fit it a few times during tacking of the runners to ensure clearance and whatnot, once that was good it was go for gold!

One thing I did learn was once you have everything tacked up and you are about to start welding it all, make sure you have a good solid base mounting plate for the head flange to bolt to so it doesnt want to warp. Say some 100x100x6mm wall. Then try and tig as much as you can while its all fully tacked up, except where it meets the flange and collector. Then break off the tacks holding the runners to the collector and flange and finish them off and then refit them and weld them on in such an order as you dont stuff yourself for access to other areas.

I may or may not have made some silly mistakes like that when I made mine, but hopefully you can learn from that!

Hopefully your manifold will turn out alot better then mine mate!

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

Posted
Posted

^^^^ some good ideas there r33 racer ...

Even tho you bolted the main flange down did it still warp a lil??? did u have to get I machined flat at all or we're u good to go ?

Do u u have pics mate ?

The more and more I talk with u boys bout it the more I wanna DO IT :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...