Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ppl, ive put in some gauges on my 32, got a oil temp gauge and oil pressure, now with the oil temp its take for ever to go up like afta 30min of driving though traffic is starts to go up but really slowly, is that normal or is my temp sensors slow to read? am i able to use a unversial sender?

2nd the oil pressure is fine till its warmed up, sometimes i stop at the lights and my gauge reads 0? i keep my eye on the orgnial oil pressure on the cluster and its different readings, ive t pieced into the orgnial hole for oil pressure in the block

these are all saber gauges

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381183-need-help-for-my-gauges/
Share on other sites

Doesn't sound right to me. My oil temp doesn't start till 40' [from memory and too lazy to check] but it starts working within a couple of km's so like 5 minutes and its slowly heating up. Settles on around 85 to 90'. Oil pressure never drops to zero, sits around 3.5 to 4, drops to around 2 [usually 2,something, maybe 2.2???] at idle.

All the senders look the same, but they are for different ranges. You would be better off getting another Saber one just to be sure.

mine are greddy gauges - takes about 5 mins for it to start moving - 10 mins its usually at 55-60 degrees Cel.

depends what gauges you buy - those saber gauges, i dunno.. never used them but for 50 bucks i guess you get what you pay for.. factory gauges arent that accurate..

mine are greddy gauges - takes about 5 mins for it to start moving - 10 mins its usually at 55-60 degrees Cel.

depends what gauges you buy - those saber gauges, i dunno.. never used them but for 50 bucks i guess you get what you pay for.. factory gauges arent that accurate..

I've only got cheap NRG malaysian electronic stepper motor gauges and they work fine. They do a whole of range and scale check every time you turn them on, this helps with setting baselines and accuracy. I haven't heard anything bad about Saber gauges, they're probably OK.

I had Greddy gauges, they were analogue ones, sold 'em, too many hassles with them.

You say you've 'T'ed the pressure in at the sender, where have you picked up the temp?

I've got a sandwich plate at my oil filter that has adaptor holes in it for both temp and pressure, so the oil flows past both senders all the time.

If you've got yours in a dead end spot you may actually only be measuring the block temp instead of the oil temp? This would expalin the slow response.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...