Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just put some NGK R5671A-8 spark plugs in that my mate recommended me to use & now my ecu hand controller is spazzing out coming up with all weird readings on it. it also was blowing some smoke with black liquid out.

why would this be?

engine is an rb25/30det conversion with gt3076r, aftermarket ecu bla bla bla

any help would be great

cheers luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381445-spark-plug-help-rb2530det/
Share on other sites

What do you call stock plugs? Factory Iridium's? They are poor for performance.

Copper plugs are the best for performance when gapped correctly. They wear out the quickest though.

80-90% of people on here would be using BCPR6ES plugs gapped between .7 and 1.1mm.

Side note - Dude, WTF is with your rocker cover breathers? Why are they linked together? The rocker covers need to go to vented catch can or the PCV/turbo inlet as factory. Im surprised your dipstick doesn't fly out every 10 seconds.

What do you call stock plugs? Factory Iridium's? They are poor for performance.

Copper plugs are the best for performance when gapped correctly. They wear out the quickest though.

80-90% of people on here would be using BCPR6ES plugs gapped between .7 and 1.1mm.

Side note - Dude, WTF is with your rocker cover breathers? Why are they linked together? The rocker covers need to go to vented catch can or the PCV/turbo inlet as factory. Im surprised your dipstick doesn't fly out every 10 seconds.

thought that about the cam breathers when i first saw pic also

What do you call stock plugs? Factory Iridium's? They are poor for performance.

Copper plugs are the best for performance when gapped correctly. They wear out the quickest though.

80-90% of people on here would be using BCPR6ES plugs gapped between .7 and 1.1mm.

Side note - Dude, WTF is with your rocker cover breathers? Why are they linked together? The rocker covers need to go to vented catch can or the PCV/turbo inlet as factory. Im surprised your dipstick doesn't fly out every 10 seconds.

yeah just factory ones i guess.

whats the best copper plug part number then?

& the hose was on there from the old set up it was singly running into a can

Dude stop using those plugs immediately! They are non-resistor, thats why your ecu is spazing out & non-projected, so probably spitting fuel out too!

Ok this has been covered so many times its not funny, however the info often given is only half right!

So here goes again......

Cheap ($4-5ea) reliable plugs are :

NGK

BCPR#EY

BKR#EY

# = correct heat range number (ie: 6->8).

*These plugs are gapped at 0.8mm std, but a suffix of -11 or -13 or -15 indicates a larger gap than std 1.1mm, 1.3 etc

Service life is about 5000km! (less under extreme conditions, such as high psi turbos)

**also note that -Y is for V-groove electrode, a much better performance design over the old standard -S type (pretty much the same price)!

The standard plugs are not iridiums, but platinum plugs PFR5G-11. These are a hotish plug with a larger gap, than what we prefer to use, they are suitable for mundaine city crawling, but not performance. But reduced gap and colder heatrange (pfr7g), would give similar performance as the "copper" plugs, but a much longer service life of >50,000km.

Standard iridiums (ie: BCPR6E -IX) are not really meant for extreme pressure/turbulance turbo applications, but the racing iridiums (IRI-) are, although quite expensive ($30-35ea)! *0.8mm gap std.

IRIWAY#

IRITOP#

* I recommend a heatrange '#' of 6 for stock engines, 7 for moderately modded with psi increase, 8 for heavy mod with >20psi (hicomp turbos >15) & 9 for extreme rpm outright racing.

The use of the CP or K (likewise WAY or TOP), are compatible with each other as far as our application is concerned, so dont stress too much over which one you get. One is the JIS standard and the other is ISO standard, all of about 1.5mm difference in the metal body length where the hex is. But to be precise, the RB25's use K or WAY and RB26's use CP or TOP.

To be clear on the gaps, tuners agree that for the stock ignition sytem, in modified engines reducing the gap from 1.1mm to 0.8mm gives a more reliable spark, reducing missing and hesitation & other ignition nasties. It is possible to increase that gap with upgraded ignition systems, which could gain some performance and economy from reduced kernel quenching (igintion flame front propagation shielding) & reduced emmisions. However it is a bit of a trade off between the ideal and the actual! For the sake of simplicity stick to 0.8mm and you wont have any trouble! :)

If you want me to pick a plug for you, go: BKR7EY every 5000km. (I use IRIWAY8).

*** With regard to the other side topic: The RB25 breathers are linked from factory, with a single common breather off the drivers side!

****Just FYI, i sell these all day every day, its my trade!

Edited by Zorro

Go the NGK BCPR7ES they come pre gapped to .8 & 1 heat range colder helps with cold starts etc every tuner ive been to tunes with these & bins the iridiums.

Also they should cost around ~$2.80 - $3.80 a plug and change every 2 service periods...

Youll go through 4 or 5 sets before spending what iridiums cost.

Go the NGK BCPR7ES they come pre gapped to .8 & 1 heat range colder helps with cold starts etc every tuner ive been to tunes with these & bins the iridiums.

Also they should cost around ~$2.80 - $3.80 a plug and change every 2 service periods...

Youll go through 4 or 5 sets before spending what iridiums cost.

yeah thats what i went with :) they seem better then my last ones i was running more responsive & sounds more healthy

cheers for all the info guys great help :)

Go the NGK BCPR7ES they come pre gapped to .8 & 1 heat range colder helps with cold starts etc every tuner ive been to tunes with these & bins the iridiums.

Also they should cost around ~$2.80 - $3.80 a plug and change every 2 service periods...

Youll go through 4 or 5 sets before spending what iridiums cost.

Colder plugs don't help cold starts at all.

sparkplug 101: plugs de-mystafied one post at a time!

LOL this is the problem with taking the advice of someone who really doesnt know or understand spark plugs, but just regurgatates some BS hes been fed! Probably why plugs seem to be such a mystery item?! Prime example is thinking that cold plugs help with cold starts, when they dont at all, if anything on a micro level doing the opposite! Heatrange is for matching operational combustion temps. So for city crawling, low engine speeds & light loads, lots of deacceleration, lots of idle time, stop starts etc means carbon buildup & other deposits form, fouling plugs, causing hesitation, poorer economy & higher emissions, requiring a hot plug to be used (the term hot and cold, can be missleading). Whereas in high rpm, high load, WOT conditions, a colder plug is needed, for several reasons, reducing the chance of pre-igniton is one of them! It is a bit more complex than that but for the scope of this thread that is more than enough.

Also what is with the insistance of using the 'S' plugs, when 'Y' plugs are the same price & just as available, but are superior in performance?

Not to mention the use of K plugs for the rb25..........

*expect to pay up to $5 per plug for "copper" NGKs'! You wont get them for $2.80ea from any auto store, the actual cost from the supplier is around that!

I have CP & K in all heat ranges, gaps & types on the shelf, any decent parts store should & i can have IRIs in half a workingday.

BKR7EY (or BCPR7EY) are perfect for spirited street use, if your pinching your pennies or IRIWAY7 if your wallet is deep enough &/or your a perfectionist looking for max performance (use 8s if your gonna hammer it 24/7)!

Also the platinums are quite a good plug when selected correctly, with a great reliable service life; just pricier than copper and less performance than the iridiums so thats why they arent first choice for a tuner, but are recommended by Nissan!

The "Racing Iridiums" (IRIWAY, IRITOP.....etc) are the best you will get, far far superior in every aspect (except price) to any other plug! Why else would NGK and NISMO, HKS etc pour hundreds of millions of dollars into research, development & testing, and use them in ALL their cars? But your mates, brothers girlfriends cusions, nextdoor neighbour, said that a guy he met a the pub one night knew a guy who had one of those cars and said his tuna told him that lawnmower plugs are fully sick & shouldnt use anything else! But in all seriousness consult a professional with regard to what plugs are best suited to your setup & use, then you will never have this problem!

:thumbsup:

I just wonder how many people actually read all the posts (& understand them), before they feel the need to post themselves?

Just thought id also add, that colder is not always better! Getting the correct range is important to efficient operation. Try this little exercise: time how long it takes you to travel from a to b on your normal drive, then using a stopwatch (may need assistance) time just how long you actually spend accelerating. You will most likely find it is less than 10% of your drive! Therefore standard recommended heatrange is fine for most or one colder if you have mildly modded it or push it a bit occasionally. If your normal drive is getting up into the hills and going for it, you will find accel times are around 20-50%, in which case your gonna need colder plugs to deal with this. Go out to a track and 70% is common, frosty cold is the go!

NGK heatrange numbers get colder the higher the number is (other brands have a different system)!

*Also worthy of mention is that these hetranges are recommended based on the use of benzo, long chain hydrocarbon based petroliums (unleaded, premium98 etc). However, short chain alcohols (inc E85), gases and other exotic fuels will require a different heatrange (usually colder), possibly also gaps, projection lengths, electrode material types & cathode constructions etc!

Thats my 2cents, take it or leave it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...