Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The time has come to part with my amazing AE86.

I have recently lost interest in it and would prefer to get back into a more modern weekender.

There is really too much to list about this car and im sure a few of you already know the car.

Build thread = http://www.ae86drivi...o-Bathurst-1986

1983 AE86 ADM with all JDM running gear.

Engine has not been rebuilt but had a genuine 8,700kms on it before it went in (november 2010) thats correct only 8,700kms! had been sitting in a shed since 1985!

Bigport 16v 4AGE currently has approx 12,000kms (runs like a brand new motor)

Chassis has approx 200,000kms but has been reconditioned from the ground up (please look in build thread for detailed pics)

the car has been built (mostly) in keeping with the 1986 Bathurst TTA regulations

Every mechanical part on the car is basically brand new - a huge amount of money has been spent on this with no corners cut

Suit enthusiast or collector.

2011-07-30131503.jpg

2011-08-26163727.jpg

73850_459229348612_649478612_5601013_7882391_n.jpg

bbk_01.jpg

2011-09-16181121.jpg

Interior is immaculate and looks like it is just out the factory from 1983 same as exterior!

I know i will regret selling this but its time for a change.

5spd manual (fresh box new clutch new lightened flywheel etc.)

Wilwood T3 Brake kit (new)

280 degree cams (new)

Simmons V4 15X7.5/8.5 (reconditioned)

cusco 2 way LSD (new)

disc to disc read diff (rare)

BC coilovers (new)

Whiteline swaybars (new)

+ much much more please call me or come see the car for the full run down :)

never taken to the track just driven on the weekends weather permitting

Shannons have valued the car at $18,500

my asking price is $14,500 with 3 months rego just put on

Located In Adelaide

call me on 0411 768 931

Cheers Sam

interested in swaps but especially for 32 GTR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381611-1983-ae86-sprinter-bathurst-replica/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
    • Run some injector cleaner through it I had a similar issue that plagued me for months, even tried replacing the cat. If one or more injectors are blocked up the ecu sees ping so pulls timing and makes the tune rich overall, you'll see black smoke coming out of the exhaust and like me assume it's running rich but it could only be one or two cylinders  $10 bottle of injector cleaner and the next time I hit boost it pumped out a huge plume of black smoke, cleared the blockage and then ran great, if that's not the issue it's only a cheap thing to try haha  
×
×
  • Create New...