Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-88824-0-41159400-1320232514_thumb.jpg

post-88824-0-38126100-1320232535_thumb.jpg

Nissan 350z HKS single turbo kit.. very hard to find. HKS stopped making them. kit has done only 2000kms

HKS full turbo kit bought it on special for $2500 otherwise this kit usually cost $8500.Exhaust: Top speed pro 1 for 350Z i bought this from USA for $1100.Computer: haltech platinum pro for 350Z cost me $2500.Injectors: injector dynamics which also called ID injectors and these are ID 1000cc with these u can also run E85 fuel. i bought these from america for $750.Turbo timer: Apexi turbo timer bought it for $150.Spark plugs: NGK spark plugs 1 heat range colder bought it for $30 each.Fuel pump: Walbro fuel pump bought it for $140.

make me an offer i need $6500 for the lot !!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381914-350z-hks-single-turbo-kit/
Share on other sites

275 RWKW on 9 psi and do over 300 RWKW on 12psi

Would LOVE to help you out but cant afford it.

But out of curiousity how much RWheel Killer Wasps did this kit put out?

275 RWKW on 9 psi and do over 300 RWKW on 12psi

Would LOVE to help you out but cant afford it.

But out of curiousity how much RWheel Killer Wasps did this kit put out?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...