Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I myself have recently purchased an R32 GTR, 1993 model, 136K kms, mild mods (HKS front pipes, Blitz catback, hi-flow cat, Tein suspension, Nardi Wheel, aftermarket wheels, few Defi's and a HKS EVC (both electronic devices not been reconnected since being registered here in W.A.).

I looked at ones in car yards, private sales, varying prices. In the end i bought a "cheaper" one because the qulity of the car that you can see, was better than that of one that was $5000 more in a car yard and some other more expensive private sale ones.

It has minimal mods, i did a compression test that i was happy with (range of compression within 10% of eachother which is passable).

The car is currently at the mechanics for a full check up and service where required, but as far as i see it, you pay a price you're happy with, for a car you're happy with, check it out to the best of your ability, then weigh the options.

You could buy a $30,000 example, burn up all you're cash and hope nothing goes wrong with it, coz you paid so much, or you pay a reasonable price and say to yourself "you know what, an R32 GTR is the car i want most, so if anything goes wrong, i'll keep it and fix it".

Buying a more expensive car that's 17yo, does not garuantee there's nothing wrong with it, no matter how much you check it out.

I've owned about 16 cars already, 11 Nissan, 6 of those were turbo. The amount of money i must have wasted on selling some of those because they weren't quite "right" is probably far more than if i had just bitten the bullet and spent the money on them.

Now i'm of the opinion that what else would i change it for (Nissan only obviously), as an R32 GTR is one of my favourite cars of all time, i've wanted one for a long time and what is going to be better than it except an R34 GTR (3 times the price) or an R35 GTR (5 to 6 times the price). If the motor sh*ts itself, then i'll rebuild it somewhere not far from standard, because i want to drive it daily and i don't want more than 300kw ATW anyway. Even if i have to do this, i'll still have a vey reasonably priced R32 GTR.

So if you really love R32 GTR's, go for the best thing you can find to suit you're budget, if it goes wrong, fix it. You probably shouldn't buy one if you don't have a love of Nissans, GTR's, repairing cars, or putting up with cars/Nissans common faults because it will drive you insane.

I reach this conclusion after many years, many cars, much time under the bonnet, under Nissans and many lessons learnt.

Best of luck on the purchase!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...