Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Here is the link to my add for more information:

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=11445518

Please don't hesitate to contact me if you are interested.

Peace

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/383124-for-sale-2001-series-2-r34-25gt-na/
Share on other sites

IMHO it is over priced by $5-6k based on the current market.

Considering the amount i paid for it 7 months ago....I'm not going to price it that low.

same with ur position ! i got my r34 only for 3 months and upgrade for 3k+ then sale it with loss over 5.5k => 10k only ! if you really wanna sell price down or if you dont rush to sell . just leave it like that + open swap will be alot more attention :D just 2cent :D

same with ur position ! i got my r34 only for 3 months and upgrade for 3k+ then sale it with loss over 5.5k => 10k only ! if you really wanna sell price down or if you dont rush to sell . just leave it like that + open swap will be alot more attention :D just 2cent :D

As they say you get what you pay for.

Speaking of which price drop to $15,500 now, a steal for this car given its condition :thumbsup: .

Edited by Comsic Gate

i can vouch for this car, very very clean GTV!!

Thanks moh :).

Update: Price drop to $15,250!

Would like the car gone by end of January.

Txt/call me if you have any questions.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...