Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Looks a little high, but that is not how Nissan gauges work. Basically all Nissan temp gauges will warm up to their normal running temperature, and sit there until the fluid actually boils (and you have broken something), and only THEN goes off the richter scale hot. Generally they don't move much inbetween.

But you should put a real temp gauge on every Nissan car imho - espeically one with a 95-100 degree warning light. Boiling cars is the 2nd easiest way to blow an engine (next to not enough oil/low oil pressure).

I put an awesome EL overlay over my cluster, and in the process of fitting it put my temp gauge out of scale - mine now sits between the 3rd and 2nd last lines when at operating temp (and already 1/3 way up when cold at start up). That's why I put in a real temp gauge

bleed the system, might need topping up. at that needle position youre probably looking at around 110-112degrees water temp. not the best, but is still operational.

if it doesnt have air in the system, look for a blockage, or check the status of your thermo fans. does it go back down when youre cruising again? if it doesnt, possibly a water pump issue.

Gosh...I and my mech didnt pickup this overheat issue when we do inspection before buying. Now it becomes annoying....

Do you guys think i should go back to Nissan dealer to have diagnosis checks? Or anyone can recommend any reliable mech in Brissy?

Thanks for you guys help~

or just check the fluid level so that you dont pay someone $180 to top up the radiator......

Did check fluid level is full & top water hose is not too hard to press, fan is only running when a/c is on but even a/c on, the temp is keeping in above middle line...what eles i should check by myself?

Your thermo fan should come on even when the a/c is off, once the car gets hot enough.

I would be checking for air in your system (which I bet is the cause). Or get a mechanic to install a water temp probe and actually check your water temp to see if your stock gauge is lying/broken.

bleed the system, might need topping up. at that needle position youre probably looking at around 110-112degrees water temp. not the best, but is still operational.

if it doesnt have air in the system, look for a blockage, or check the status of your thermo fans. does it go back down when youre cruising again? if it doesnt, possibly a water pump issue.

Just found your question when i was a bit panic, sorry, mate~

I havent flush the coolant yet, but will do soon.

What do you mean by "doesnt have air in the system, look for a blockage" how to check it? I check my fan only runs when a/c on but it doesnt go back to normal temp even with fan (a/c on) on or when i am cruising again.

Water pump issue? What other procedure that i can check whether it is water pum failure? Pls advise, thanks~

Your thermo fan should come on even when the a/c is off, once the car gets hot enough.

I would be checking for air in your system (which I bet is the cause). Or get a mechanic to install a water temp probe and actually check your water temp to see if your stock gauge is lying/broken.

Thanks, Andrew. How can you check air in your system?

Unscrew the little plastic bleed screw in the left hand side at the rear o fthe engine. If you look along the water piping you will see it - it is black plastic and has an X in it to unscrew it with a phillips-head screwdriver.

Hi Mikhail, so have you ever checked by Nissan or any V35 SERVICE SPECIALISTS before? Or you just leave it as it is?

I am leaving mine as is as I am pretty certain its normal. I think I saw a similar thread on here that said the same thing. I had mine serviced and no problems were found. Also my needle is just below the middle, yours is above middle.

If you have access to someone with a datascan tool, get them to check the coolant temperature with it, if it is around 85-90 deg C, then I wouldn't worry about it. Especiallly if it doesn't seem to go up and down when driving hard, or climbing hills

If you have access to someone with a datascan tool, get them to check the coolant temperature with it, if it is around 85-90 deg C, then I wouldn't worry about it. Especiallly if it doesn't seem to go up and down when driving hard, or climbing hills

I wrote a proper bleed procedure somewhere on G35, just search my name.

Also get a radiator cap with temp control gauge on it, you can go check yourself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...