Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Air Con Issues

bogan in rice

By bogan in rice,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

bogan in rice Explorer

bogan in rice

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

just drove my 32 home on the freeway (hot day 37C) and the ac stopped working

with a funny noise, i checked it when i got home and the belts gone cooked off

so i checked all the pulleys and there all free including the compressor and clutch

but the clutch wont seem to engage when you press the switch. Just had it gassed

a week ago. Whats goin on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384763-r32-air-con-issues/
Share on other sites
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Two common reasons the clutch wont throw;

- fuse is blown

- gas has leaked out again

So check the fuse first, and if that's ok, get the gas checked again. If you cant be bothered checking the gas properly, there'll be a valve (at bit like to tyre valve) under a red cap on one of the air con lines, you could press it to see if there's any gas left.

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

got gas, fuse is good but wheres the belt? it was brand new belt and i can see

melted rubber on the pulleys like something seized.

sounds like the air compressor itself has seized(or the tensioner bearing), cant think of anything else that would cause the belt to do that

bogan in rice Explorer

bogan in rice

Posted
  • Author
Posted

sounds like the air compressor itself has seized(or the tensioner bearing), cant think of anything else that would cause the belt to do that

must have seized then come loose again?!? can you get parts for the compressors or even new units

is anything compatible?

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

must have seized then come loose again?!? can you get parts for the compressors or even new units

is anything compatible?

you could probably get new parts and it MAY be even possible for you to fit them if your handy with a spanner, ive always handballed these sort of problems straight to an auto electrician as you might have more than one issue on your hands

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...