Jump to content
SAU Community

Bad Compression, Oily Motor, Rings ?

mikeyR33-T

By mikeyR33-T,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, for those of you who do not know me/my car; its 93 r33 rb25det, auto, coupe 180,000+ kms, had to change turbo recently and rocker cover gaskets etc.. got the car cheaper but now i see why, even from day 1 when i got it dynoed and tested the dyno was down at least 10-15kw off normal, I have a 3inch turbo bk xhaust and hi flow cat, FMIC, and K&N filter, stock turbo/ecu etc all stock internals, the car always ran okay except starting up in morning it would idle rough as for a min till it came good, and driving it would at times hesitate OR have flat spots midrange. always drove but wasnt 100% power wise and idling and recently got worse, now the induction noise is very loud then it used to be, the car still idles rough in the mornings but most recently BELOW is the issue:

MY car has been down on compression on 2 of 6 cyl, but only be 10-15 psi, but since then i have upped the boost and given it a HARD time here and there, and NOW im getting oil spat all ova the engine bay, ive been told its compression build up shooting the dipstick out and oil out onto the engine bay beside the dipstick? theres no other way for oil to get out on the side of the motor, so myself and mechanic have decided compression has gone worse in the past months and to change the rings/gaskets for rebuild?? is that the ideal solution, and will it make the engine run like new again??

I thought the idling and flat spots issues may be timing/ AFR but I think now its to do with compression/air flow and my mechanic friend and I have decided to do the RINGS in my rb25det, change all the rings and gaskets as to do a rebuild to bring the engine/car back to life??

WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST? IS THIS A GOOD IDEA? (there would be more details in this but i only know so much)

thanx - this is serious, I do not want to drive my engine to the ground if its slowly dying?

cheers mikeyy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384944-bad-compression-oily-motor-rings/
Share on other sites
mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

do a compression test, post results

did 3-4months ago, like this; 150,150,150,145,140,135 from mem - but that was august, the main reason to choosing to do rings is because the motor isnt running its best and that dipstick has blown out and oil out the side of the motor and engine bay.. compression seems down

Damo_R34 Grand Master

Damo_R34

Posted
Posted

did 3-4months ago, like this; 150,150,150,145,140,135 from mem - but that was august, the main reason to choosing to do rings is because the motor isnt running its best and that dipstick has blown out and oil out the side of the motor and engine bay.. compression seems down

If compression was down you probably shouldnt have wound up the boost and hammered it, but do a current compression test.

mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If compression was down you probably shouldnt have wound up the boost and hammered it, but do a current compression test.

yeah probably not hey, but at the time i didnt know or think it was that bad...everyone ive spoke to has said new rings/gaskets will make the engine run like NEW! which i believe is worth it either way

RBJETT Rising Star

RBJETT

Posted
Posted

the only thing that id have been weary of is 1 cylinder being 15psi off when the rest are really within 5-10psi. wouldnt be enough to cause what your saying tho but i still wouldnt have wrung its neck

  • 1 month later...
mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the only thing that id have been weary of is 1 cylinder being 15psi off when the rest are really within 5-10psi. wouldnt be enough to cause what your saying tho but i still wouldnt have wrung its neck

Hi, just updating... I got the new rings/conrod bearings/3pistons were fu%d got all that replaced and now realised its running R&R which was most likely the whole time since I changed actuators :P Im learning as I go along...

I have since got Z32 ecu and Nistune installed, plan on getting a tune done asap to get the best I can out of this car and of course fix the bugs it has, Martin from WILLALL has explained to me, his tune will fix most of my issues :D cant wait, car might actually run to its full potential soon enough :D

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ben_D
      Wanted to buy R200 longnose LSD 3.9 ratio

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Ben_D
      Back for more after 18 years - and where are the longnose R200 LSDs?

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • sonicii
      G35 Control arm and Compression Rods into a V35 Skyline.

      By sonicii · Posted

      Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...