Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just after peoples opinions on this.

I was out driving yesterday and about 1/2 hour into the trip I tried to acellerate up a hill and noticed I had bugger all power.

It feels like I have 1/3 or less the power that I normally have, it takes over 5 seconds to acellerate from 90 to 100 :blink:

I didnt hear or feel anything happen, the motor still runs and idles smoothly but has bugger all power.

The boost guages (factory and eBoost) both show vaccume but neither will rise above zero when under load.

When the load / revs is in the area where it would normally produce boost it emits some white smoke. I guess this is cause its now running quite rich without the extra air?

So my questions are, what can I look for that may indicate what the problem is? Does a blown turbo exhibit these symptoms?

Could it be something else like the eBoost?

Some basics

- RB34 GT-T

- FMIC

- PowerFC

- eBoost

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384961-so-something-broke/
Share on other sites

Pull the dump off and have a look at you turbine if there is one. Like mafia said check cooler piping. Don't drive it untill you find the problem if it is a blown turbo there will be bits of ceramic everywhere if some gets into the motor then hello rebuild. Also is it a rb34 strocker or did you mean r34? Guessing it's a rb25 neo. If it is the turbo then pull it all off including manifold and ensure it's all clean also drop the cat as it will be full of turbine wheel. When my turbo blew made hardly any noise if you have a loud exhaust you wont hear it.

Check list

Check for split /popped silicone hoses

Remove dump check turbo turbine wheel if gone remove turbo and manifold also cat converter

If its neither of these drop the cat it may be blocked and will cause little or no boost

These are my experiences in the past they may help otherwise I'm not sure

Pull the dump off and have a look at you turbine if there is one.

If there is one. had to laugh at that.

Will do that when I have some time on the weekend.

Like mafia said check cooler piping.

Had already had a look at the plumbing, could not see anything obvious.

Don't drive it untill you find the problem if it is a blown turbo there will be bits of ceramic everywhere if some gets into the motor then hello rebuild.

Ouch.

I have already driven it over 300km (problem happend far from home).

If the impeller breaks up can it actually make its way past the the FMIC? I would have thought it would have got stuck there?

Also is it a rb34 strocker or did you mean r34? Guessing it's a rb25 neo.

Doh!!!

Yes its a R34 with a RB25. Silly slip there.

Check list

Check for split /popped silicone hoses

Remove dump check turbo turbine wheel if gone remove turbo and manifold also cat converter

If its neither of these drop the cat it may be blocked and will cause little or no boost

These are my experiences in the past they may help otherwise I'm not sure

Thanks, will run through the rest of these over the weekend.

There is a bearing case that stop it getting anywhere near the cooler haha. It can go back up the manifold and slip into the engine when the valve is opened 9 times out of 10 it won't but still that chance. Also your want to look at the rear housing of the turbo that's the turbine wheel that's the one that will go more then likely if it's not that wheel check the front but I doubt it. By memory its a 6 bolt flange on the dump 4 bolts 2 nuts I think it's a 13 mm spanner bit of a pain to undo but not impossible. Feel free to ask questions if you get stuck

What exhaust system do you have mate?

If you cant see anything wrong with the turbines, id say that a resinator has collapsed and blocked the exhaust.........or somebody doesnt like you blocked it :rolleyes:

The symptoms you just gave sound exactly like mine when mine collapsed, apparently its common with kakimoto exhausts.

Just drop the exhaust at the downpipe and drive it down the road, you will soon see if it has solved your problems :thumbsup:

  • 2 weeks later...

Ahh that sucks mate (not as much as P-platers writing your car off though). I was running a highflow on the Neo engine in my Stagea, built by a local turbo guru but even something like a Hypergear bolt-on highflow (not one of their huge ones with custom housings) would be an excellent bang-for-buck upgrade. Should be able to get an easy 220-240rwkw out of the standard injectors, was only running 15psi through mine but it certainly made the 2t bus get up and boogy.

but even something like a Hypergear bolt-on highflow (not one of their huge ones with custom housings) would be an excellent bang-for-buck upgrade. Should be able to get an easy 220-240rwkw out of the standard injectors, was only running 15psi through mine but it certainly made the 2t bus get up and boogy.

In the end Ive decided to send by old turbo to hypergear to be rebuilt and highflowed.

Seems to be the easiest and most cost effective option given that I dont want to change injecters, AFM, etc.

In the end Ive decided to send by old turbo to hypergear to be rebuilt and highflowed.

Seems to be the easiest and most cost effective option given that I dont want to change injecters, AFM, etc.

Super happy fun sideways time will shortly ensue! :devil:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...