Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

read somewhere close to 320hp at the wheels

officially 280hp

R34 GTR in standard form is pretty slow and very laggy to my liking

which is why no keeps them stock

Wait what?

280hp at fly but yeah around 320 at fly, around 230-250 at wheels if totally standard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385189-r34-gtr/#findComment-6144241
Share on other sites

Stock Standard R34 GTR's have been proven on many different occassions to make around the 320 all-wheel horsepower mark. Nissan quoted them as 206kw due the "gentleman's agreement" but in reality they made about ~50-60 more hp than quoted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385189-r34-gtr/#findComment-6144591
Share on other sites

Stock Standard R34 GTR's have been proven on many different occassions to make around the 320 all-wheel horsepower mark. Nissan quoted them as 206kw due the "gentleman's agreement" but in reality they made about ~50-60 more hp than quoted.

Flywheel horsepower. Not wheels.

Show me one stock standard R34 GTR making 320awhp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385189-r34-gtr/#findComment-6144615
Share on other sites

Stock Standard R34 GTR's have been proven on many different occassions to make around the 320 all-wheel horsepower mark.

This dyno sheet is of my car with and without the intake snorkle removed. Car was bone stock, down to intake and exhaust but had it's boost restrictor removed.

So in regards to the OP's question, on a stock standard GTR with snorkel and boost restrictor still in place, I'd have to disagree here mate and say that 320AWHP would a very optimistic figure. pinch.gif

post-72307-0-37565300-1323326805_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385189-r34-gtr/#findComment-6144683
Share on other sites

This dyno sheet is of my car with and without the intake snorkle removed. Car was bone stock, down to intake and exhaust but had it's boost restrictor removed.

So in regards to the OP's question, on a stock standard GTR with snorkel and boost restrictor still in place, I'd have to disagree here mate and say that 320AWHP would a very optimistic figure. pinch.gif

Looks around about 270awhp / 201awkw with the snorkel in place. Agreed, 320 is rather optimistic to say the least.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385189-r34-gtr/#findComment-6144766
Share on other sites

Mine ran around 12.5-13 PSI with restrictor removed, so yeah around 1 bar.

It would depend on flow of air filter/exhaust etc. So anywhere between 12psi to 15psi. Hence why it's always a good idea to get the AFR's checked when you remove it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385189-r34-gtr/#findComment-6145334
Share on other sites

Flywheel horsepower. Not wheels.

Show me one stock standard R34 GTR making 320awhp.

I've seen it on a Nissan Skyline documentary. It showed a bayside blue R34 GTR non-v-spec on a dyno and it made between 310-320awhp. I can't remember to exact figure; I watched this doco a long time ago =\

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385189-r34-gtr/#findComment-6146135
Share on other sites

I've seen it on a Nissan Skyline documentary. It showed a bayside blue R34 GTR non-v-spec on a dyno and it made between 310-320awhp. I can't remember to exact figure; I watched this doco a long time ago =\

Was this "documentary" hosted by Ketzal Sterling? :whistling:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385189-r34-gtr/#findComment-6146237
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...