Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bit of a clear out of parts I no longer need, reasonable offers considered. I will add more as I remember.

1. Bosch 044

Limited use, two available. Was going to run twin pumps but going with a large single instead.

100each

2. HKS DB Chrono Boost and Oil Pressure Gauges

Include all cables, control unit and sensors. Pricey buggers no longer in production. Very slim profile (can easily be double sided taped anywhere on the dash). Have peak recall, replay and all that jazz refer here for full description:

http://www.nengun.com/hks/db-meter-chrono

300 for the pair

3. Surge Tank

Includes 6AN hose tail fittings. Bottom outlet is -10AN.

120ono

fuelsys-1.jpg

4. Optima Yellow Top Battery

Limited use. Presents as new. Terminals included.

330ono

5. RB26 Long Motor

Standard rb26 head

Arias forged pistons, N1 oil pump

Std bearings etc

Completely rebuilt ~10k km's ago, leakdown was in the 18-22% range when last checked. This motor didn't have any piston slap when cold but did use a reasonable amount of oil (built with generous tolerance's by previous owner).

Ideally suit rebuild/freshen up.

Does NOT include cam covers, sump, plenum, balancer or any ancillaries.

1500

6. TIAL 50mm BOV

Black, un-marked. As new

200ono

TIAL%20BOV.jpg

7. WEDS TC005 17 x 9.5 +30 forged

Ultra-light (7.3'ish kg per corner) wheel with concave face. Easily clear 355mm brakes as pictured.

1750

PC311826.jpg

255_03.jpg

8. Greddy Oil Cap

Blue.

100ono

GReddy-Oil-Cap-Blue-300.jpg

Will post anywhere in Aus, buyer pays shipping.

PM or email [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385541-fs-weds-tc005-17-x-95-30-forged/
Share on other sites

044 internal or external and 50mm bov plumb back or not?

BOV isn't plumb back.

As the guys above said, 044 can be run in tank or external but these two are spoken for.

  • 2 weeks later...

No probs Rob.

Had a few queries on cost to ship the wheels, freight to most area's is ~120 using TNT road. Obviously a lot more if you live in the middle of no where!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...