Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone. I'm new to this forum and have just bought myself an R33 GTST Skyline :)

I'm hoping that someone here can help me with an immobiliser / locking situation. The immobilIser currently installed is one of those old styles with the little keyring thing you have to stick on the two prongs until the light goes out, kinda thing....as well as a button remote push for locking and unlocking, AND a button for setting off the alarm. It's far too complicated and messy.........so many times now i've set off the alarm instead. Rather embarrassing really :|

Is there anyone here from Perth that can tell me where I can get a new, and easy "one-button push remote" for locking/unlocking with the immobilser installed.........and one that's not too expensive?? Are these people also able to install turbo timers at the same time?

Any help will be great! I also live south of the river, so anyone with contacts..... south area would be much more preferable :)

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386276-new-immobiliser-install-perth-wa/
Share on other sites

I have a place but its up north, they installed my Mongoose M80G for $300 with extras and they did a great job.

So if you wanna go that far its called

Solution Auto Electrics-

Ph- 6364 3983

Mob- 0416 067 803

This name is Min Tang

Should be a problem for them do something little like that.

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi everyone. I'm new to this forum and have just bought myself an R33 GTST Skyline :)

I'm hoping that someone here can help me with an immobiliser / locking situation. The immobilIser currently installed is one of those old styles with the little keyring thing you have to stick on the two prongs until the light goes out, kinda thing....as well as a button remote push for locking and unlocking, AND a button for setting off the alarm. It's far too complicated and messy.........so many times now i've set off the alarm instead. Rather embarrassing really :|

Is there anyone here from Perth that can tell me where I can get a new, and easy "one-button push remote" for locking/unlocking with the immobilser installed.........and one that's not too expensive?? Are these people also able to install turbo timers at the same time?

Any help will be great! I also live south of the river, so anyone with contacts..... south area would be much more preferable :)

Thanks

we used this guy the other day the install a central locking kit for one of our customers, he seemed good. he does alarms, remote central locking etc.

the details are

Cars Audio & Security

Mobile Auto Electrician

0431107008

www.hameedauto.com

turbo timers are ADR defects and not needed but for wank factor

get one ADR approved for insurance reasons, most companies wont cover you if you dont have one and it gets nicked

you dont want a basic alarm on a skyline unless it complies to ADR standards, not to scare you off but it takes less then 30 seconds to take a car with a basic alarm

and skylines attract crims like flies to crap

welcome to skyline ownership , the car is great just use common sense on where you leave it :thumbsup:

Edited by Carbon 34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...