Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

righto guys, problem.. help is needed.

we just had a major storm over here, fork lightning, strong winds. the works.

I noticed the storm was comming, so i shut down both the gaming PC and the server, turned off the battery backup system. and unpluged everything from the wall sockets.

after the storm had passed, plugged everything back in, server starts up fine. gaming PC loops itself.

turn on -> motherboard check -> loop -> loop -> restart.

i can not see the motherbaord screen ( i.e GIGABYTE welcome screen). so i am guessing either the power supply has somehow shit itself.. or the motherboard has finally packed it in. any help would be appreciated

intel core 2 quad Q6600 2.66GHz

GIGABYTE GA-EP45 - UD3L

Quadleadtek GTX 470

1 x WD green 1TB HDD ( boot drive)

seagate 1.5TB HDD ( secondary/storage)

Thermaltake Qfan toughpower 850W PSU

Kingston HyperX DDR2 RAM ( speed unknown. cant remember)

ah usual with tradition. something screws up over xmas period. (last yer the great HDD failure of 2010)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386482-motherboard-failure/
Share on other sites

explain loop - as this will help

i assume by motherboard check, it's posting then restarts

try pulling everything out except power and see if you get a post fail - no ram - if so mobo should be good - then start putting everything back 1 at a time - starting with ram - see if it post and stays on - then GPU - then HDD - then anything else

if it doesnt post or fail post it could be either mobo or PSU

just replaced the PSU with a backup i have ( 700W). and no change.

the loop is bascially restarting itself, i should of been more clearer. i cant get into the bios or boot menu because i cant get to the motherboard screen to press F12 / F9 to get bios/boot menu.

i'll try your suggestions tomorrow morning when i wake up :) thanks for the quick reply

Edited by liger

If pulling things out one by one does not work then do this:

Take out the battery on the mobo, flush (press power etc), and reinstall & try again with just CPU, RAM and a HDD/SSD. No GPU or other PCI items.

yeah i didnt think to clear the CMOS. so i'll get stuck into it early tomorrow morning.

another motherboard is on order aswell as some new ram ( to suit DDR3 mobo). if i fix it before they arrive, i'll keep them as spares.

Edited by liger

reset CMOS and tried to boot with 1 stick of RAM. the motherboard went past its self-test phase ( phase 1,2,3 LED's turned themselves off, before they would stay on).

so hooked up a HDD and GPU and i can now boot to windows. NFI what the problem was with it last night. probably that time of the month i imagine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
    • Plan B? Get someone to machine up a metal bush/collar/whatever it needs to be to replace the rubber? I haven't had a close look at that part recently to have a proper feel for whether that's possible. But it might be easy.
    • I do not want to install a short shifter and the only other stock throw shifter I have seen is the Nismo "Rigid shifter" for $290 So plan A is to fill it with sikaflex to stiffen it up and hope for the best
×
×
  • Create New...