Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

just need abit of help, trying to sort out where all the lines hook up and get them all setup right. (water and vacuum mainly atm)

got a few that im unsure about, have been doing some research in other threads and pics to try sort it myself.

sorry i know this stuff has probably been brought up more than once..

But would be great for confirmation.

i didnt pull it all apart originally, and alot of changes have been made. so want to make sure i have everything right when is back together

basically will run custom lines if is more practical.

i do have some of the steel lines but would prefer to run neat, new lines

line 1 line 2 line 3 (top) and 4 (bottom) lines 5 (left) and 6 (right)

photo1uz.jpgphoto2qd.jpgphoto3kj.jpgphoto4zs.jpg

Lines 7 (left) and 8 (right) line 9

photo5xi.jpgphototqc.jpg

basically need to confirm which way to run water and oil feeds and drains/returns for turbo (single)

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386787-rb26-vacuum-line-layout/
Share on other sites

line 1 - I run this to my boost controller solenoid- it won't see vacuum as it's before the throttle bodies. Can't remember where it went in factory setup. The factory boost controller solenoid is fed of the steel line setup, it may have plumbed into that.

line 2- this runs to the water return pipe from the turbos, there's a hard line that bolts to the cam gear cover that joins it to the water pipe that sits above the ex manifold, the turbo water returns feed into this.

Line 3- this runs to the charcoal canister hard line that sits behind the cam gear cover.

line 4- pretty sure this goes the the bov top feed. (splits into two)

line 5- front turbo oil drain

line 6 - rear turbo oil drain - the oil feed is bang in the middle of the side of the block, the water feed is upper right. See photo, my finger is pointing to the oil feed and you can see the water feed above the plug in the upper right. Tip- use the stock fitting if running twins as making a custom one fit is a massive pain.

line 7 - brake booster

line 8- clutch booster

line 9- this is a water line that plumbs back into the steel line, which feeds around the back off the block to hook up with the turbo water return line. Check other photo, it plumbs into the line my finger is pointing to.

Do you still have the steel pipe arrangement?

post-48345-0-34605400-1325210643_thumb.jpg

post-48345-0-69122300-1325210836_thumb.jpg

Awesome thanks, very handy.

Yeah I have some of the steel pipes, but going to minimize all the pipe work. Running single turbo so less oil an water lines also.

I'll post up a couple updated pics once finished running all the lines, handy for future reference.

Thanks!

What did you do with your water lines? How did u run them and block them off?

I made up my own little jig by putting a "Y" piece into those two water lines at the back of the intake manifold, then ran a hard line that I got made from Pirtek around the back of the engine and to the front where the original coolant line joins up....

Then just block the water gallery in the block with a bolt and thread tape...

I dunno if that was the best or easiest way to do it but it's closest I could get it to having to coolant run like a stock system without using dodgy line blocks

Ps my turbo isn't water cooled

Edited by GTR_JOEY

nice that sounds allright.

Not 100% yet ill be looking at it more tomorrow, but my thoughts were possibly..

-running water feed from the block.>turbo

-running water return from turbo and the line 9 from my pic, into water return fitting (line 2 in pic), will look at which way will run the lines and what lines too use yet.

-maybe run from water feed line near thermostat>oil cooler/heater> firewall/heaterbox>water return line rear of block beneath intake manifold

and obviously block off one turbo oil return on block

ill update with my final setup and pics when done too

  • 3 weeks later...

hopefully its understandable and not too confusing, but hope this helps anyone else in future too.

thanks for the guide and info, much appreciated. made it much easier.

the lines still need to be tied down in places yet, and also the manifold is not permanantly on yet. but you get the idea anyway

post-77424-0-57504700-1326983164_thumb.jpg

post-77424-0-01003700-1326983188_thumb.jpg

post-77424-0-83349100-1326983219_thumb.jpg

Thats pretty much how i set up my water lines

my turbo isnt water cooled so instead i just ran that water line that youve put a "y" (i also used a similar Y intersection) piece around the back, past the turbo via a hard line i had made up at pirtek and then into where u have it...

then i just plugged that water feed/drain at the rear of the block on the turbo side..

if i had a water cooled turbo i woulda ran the lines the same as you have

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...