Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

I currently have a 1994 R33 gts25 that has done 115,000 kms. I drove my car home yesterday from work like usual.. parked my car in the garage for about 1 1/2 hours, got back in the car, it turned on but then the revs started to drop off untill the car was no longer running. I tried turning it on a few times more but the same thing happened. I then turned the car on again and held the revs at 2000 rpm which kept the car running but if i let off the car would stop. I tried again and turned the a/c off this time and held the revs at 2000rpm and the car didnt turn off and started idling like normal I turned the a/c back on and nothing happened. I left the car for a few hours and came back and tried again but it turned off. I then started again with the a/c on and held the revs and the car started idling like normal. Ever since then I can turn the car on normally.

I thought maybe it was gunk in the throttle body and after reving the car it has just cleaned it's self out. Maybe the throttle body needs a clean? Even though I had it cleaned by the mechanics last time I took the car for a service which was 3000-5000kms ago

Could it be a problem with the spark plugs?

Could it be a problem associated with fuel?

Also it was a 37 degree day

What could this be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387770-car-turning-off/
Share on other sites

sounds like the icv, when i did my metal intake i had this problem of the car sounding like it would start then simply dieing, check and clean icv, check for splits in the hose and clamp tightness and a leak will make it stall aswell. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387770-car-turning-off/#findComment-6182718
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...