Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rather than post up a new thread iwth a new question ever few days, why don't you save up a ton of your questions about every aspect of V35s and ask them in one thread? This is getting a bit ridiculous.

And before you post another new topic every time, make sure you do a search on SAU for the topic, and go do a search on g35driver.com - you will find that every question possible of being asked has been asked on there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388297-tallights/#findComment-6188922
Share on other sites

I assume you are referring to a sedan...and I assume you are referring to headlights not tail lights...if my assumptions are correct, then the answer is NO. S1 and S2 headlights are different.

Edit, just re-read your title...tail lights, yes they are interchangeable...

Edited by n15m0
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388297-tallights/#findComment-6189496
Share on other sites

Believe it or not we actually did have a like button on the forums about a year ago, but we took it off because people were abusing it. There was a reputation rating of each user as well, and when you got too many dislikes your reputation went down the toilet and there were too many idiots abusing it, so we removed it.

But yeah, when a user has 6 threads on the front page of any forum it is time for me to tell them to calm down. Especially when most of the the topics have been covered before.

Thanks for the 'Likes' guys :D :D :D .... I am just trying to keep the peace and make SAU enjoyable for everybody.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388297-tallights/#findComment-6189893
Share on other sites

Well if I asked all the things I wanted in one post it all gets lost in translation and I only get the answer on one or two issues.

I did look on G35driver.com and yes there was a post relating to it but wasn't what I was asking.

I'm new to the whole forums idea because this isthe first real "import" and "decent" car I've had so I'm sorry for asking heaps and heaps of questions

Also nightcrawler, I'm sorry for being a mega C**T to you last night. Had a bad day at work and I took it out on you and that's not mature and acceptable at all. I am sorry.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388297-tallights/#findComment-6190015
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...