Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 102
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Wow, you're car looks great, almost exactly the same as mine only mine doesn't have all the badging and stuff on it (to be thruthful im glad, didn't want some dick trying to get the S logo off the bonnet with a screwdriver :bonk: )

As for my baby :) booked in for rego on Thursday, should pick it up next weekend if all goes well. I'm all psyched up now! :)

Anyways, good luck with it, that's one nice looking car!

lol we will probably be on the road at the same time maybe you a couple of weeks earlier :) yea the badge on the bonnet will come off ASAP looks a bit homo on that note any tips people that have removed it is it glued on or does it have some sort of bolt/attachement.

yea i would see if i do want it in the end but i was thinking POSSIBLY i dont know how it would look yet but see if it would mount between the bonnet and the bart like were people ahve their GT-R one i could just put that S... not sure if it would look dicky or not but we will see hopefully it looks good

  • 3 weeks later...

well the car arrived today took it for a quick spin around the block mmm turbo's are nice. other than that it needs a really good clean and a bit of cut and polish and it will be sweet as. Goes into rego on thursday and seeing as how it is stock as a rock it should have no problems. also tested all power options eg indicators, break lights, mirrors windows etc etc all work fine so yea i may actually get spotted soon WOOT. hope to catch up with some of you soon.. FINALLY :wassup:

Nice work mate! Took delivery of mine yesterday too. Went for a spin around Manuka...i wasn't driving cause i don't get to till november but it's still a great car to be a pasenger in. Picked up rego for mine as well, the last 3 digits are 33M :)

yeah, lets see, i got the custom plates sheet here (i wanted GAJ 33T but it cost about $1,800!!!!) the example RH 351 costs $313 for tin and $399 for plastic, unique plates (like GAJ 33T) are $1,894... if it looks like a manufacturer or model (e.g Ni55an) that's $3,531 and numeric plates go from $627 to $4,602

Almost forgot, plates with your name on them with seven or less characters cost $627.

I just ended up getting standard plates, but the lady at the motor registery Gaye was really nice and after seeing the number combo i wanted went and found plates with the numbers 33 in them. 33M or 33C... i went for M.

About the plates, i noticed the standards fit just fine in the rear bracket, but at the front they're a few centimetres too long and had to be bent to fit in the mounting brackets. It looks pretty crappy. Is it possible to get a smaller plate for the front and how much would i be looking at for that? I want to keep it blue + white like the standard plate on the back too.

About the plates, i noticed the standards fit just fine in the rear bracket, but at the front they're a few centimetres too long and had to be bent to fit in the mounting brackets. It looks pretty crappy. Is it possible to get a smaller plate for the front and how much would i be looking at for that? I want to keep it blue + white like the standard plate on the back too.

on the R32 the plates dont fit at all without bending, so the front i moved to the side and the rears bent, not much can be done about it

good to see the two of you will both be on the road soon,

Kinda yes....but what would they prefer? no plates at all? :D

When i get around to ordering a plastic replacement for my tin ones, i'll whip up a bracket to side mount it. Give more flow to what's left of my intercooler, and looks good too :) Brake ducting...who needs brake ducting...i've got a great big stainless pipe there for the intercooler anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...