Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just looking for some general feedback (and hopefully within the next 60 minutes) as to what people would think of the following.

I have a 1992 R32 GTR, and the tailshaft bearing needs replacing. The mechanic has asked me if id be interested in putting in a single piece tailshaft, as then I wouldnt have to worry about cv joints, centre tailshaft bearings etc.

My main concern with this is, talking to a few people, it would punish the rear diff a hell of alot more than it does currently.

What are peoples opinions on doing this?

Thanks

Nik

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39003-single-piece-tailshaft-on-gtr/
Share on other sites

Well, the original ones last for many years - and Nissan put the one that's in there, with a cv joint, for a reason. I am cannot understand why they would put a CV joint in a tail shaft for the hell of it, it would be cheaper and probably lighter to use one piece.

Can this mechanic guy give you a guarantee that a one piece wont fark anything up - and do it in writing?

I am always sceptical when a someone says they can do things better than the manufacturer, without having the R&D to support it.

I agree with Steve, Nissan put it there for a reason. Last year my mate put a one piece in his warm VL thinking it would eliminate the need for the centre bearing etc. The tailshaft was quite thick in the wall and it was balanced. Lasted around 6 months then let go at 210kmh, made a mess of the floor, stuffed the gearbox output shaft and also the diffs pinion gear. $3,000 later for floor and mechanical repairs. I know its a different car but the same principals apply, i remember touring car commodores raced with the centre bearing still in place.

Hi Nik

The problem you will encounter is this, the GTR does not have a spline shaft coming out the back of the box (ie: ford BW35, C4 & GM T350, T400, powerglide to name a few of the more common RWD) - it has a 4 bolt flange.

The spline actually moves in and out with the rear suspension (as these car are mostly live rear axle - I know this is kindergarten basics, but I have to make sure I'm explaining myself!!), where as the GTR has the diff centre mounted solidly to the rear cradle.

The trouble with putting a solid shaft into the GTR means you will have no movement between the rear of the box and the front of the diff flange. I would love to see how he is going to mount a solid shaft between the diff and box (which are both solid mounted, as on the normal falcs etc, you slide the tailshaft all the way into the back of the box, then bring it back to mate to the rear uni/flange on the diff)

So, unfortunatly in your case, the short answer is no (unless he is going to convert your rear box flange, to enable it to be the spline type - scary!!)

I looked at all of this only last night, as I finished bolting up my tailshaft.

One thing you need to look at is to make sure your current centre bearing has not come adrift of the lugs on the hoop mount. Remember I told you mine was fragged? when I looked at it, it had come out of the lugs - so now that it is back in - it is way tighter, very little movement.

Best of luck - let me know how it goes

Dan

i think you can on a rb25 as they arent solid bolted to the gearbox they slide in on a shaft if they do id say it would be cool... previous the vl is a very isolated incident a one piece shaft especially on lowered commodores is a good idea due to the agles a 2 piece creates from being lowered..

well i have a HR31 passage... Its RWD and has the IRS/LSD rear end. I am not too sure how it is mounted etc hence why i asked the question.

But having a think about it i can see how the 2 piece would work with the diff when it moves up and down.

I am nearing the stage where i'll need to get the yoke and tailshaft mated to each other, so this information is pretty valuable to me :D

the idea behind a 2 piece is to reduce driveline vibration put simply, one pieces also need more frequent maitnance, that is why 2 pieces are a more popular facory fitment.

i think another problem with such a conversion is that most one piece tailshaft setups use a extension housing with a stronger extension housing setup to support output shaft better, the centre cv bearing setup allows only minor horizontal in out movements whereas one piece will transmit more vertical and radial whip like forces to output shaft and housing. constantly chewed out ext housing seals are signs of this excesive radial movement.

Hey guys,

I received this email from a very helpful guy at Hardy Spicer. He raises some good points to consider:

It is not generally a good idea to replace a two piece shaft with a single piece shaft for two main reasons:

 

           1.         The geometry between the gearbox and diff are different for the two different shafts. Changing from one to the other requires changes to gearbox and axle mounts to obtain the correct geometry. A one piece shaft also requires more room than a two piece shaft and often there is insufficient clearance to fit a single piece shaft; even if the transmission tunnel is big enough to fit a one piece shaft there are often complications with seat belt anchors, hand brake brackets, cross-members, suspension mounts, exhaust(s), etc.

 

           2.         The main reason for using a two piece shaft is related to the speed that the shaft spins at. A one piece shaft has a much lower speed rating than a two piece shaft of the same length. Shafts in many applications can be spinning at up to 2000 RPM faster than engine speed due to overdrive ratios in top gear (sometimes the top 2 gears) and a single piece shaft simply can not handle the speeds required.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...