Jump to content
SAU Community

Replacing Manifold Studs ?

gunjack

By gunjack,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

gunjack Explorer

gunjack

Posted
Posted

Manifold studs need replacing

Have asked around for quotes to replace the studs

All have varied in Time and Price.

Just wondering if anyone has any idea as to what gaskets will need replacing apart from the Manifold Gasket.

Does the turbo need to be removed ? If so where would it be best to do so ?

Any imfo or guides would be gratley Appreciated

Thanks again for your time

Gunjack

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39029-replacing-manifold-studs/
Share on other sites
blx Experienced

blx

Posted
Posted

Hey how are you going. This happened to my old 95 GTS-t and since then seems to be a fairly common problem with the RB25DET as i have heard of it about 6 times now.

Unfortunately I am not 100% sure on what exactly went on with mine when they repaired, but from what i can remember replaced exhaust manifold and that was it. had to take turbo off but don't think that possessed any real drama.

Can anyone else help out on this?

Cheers

DCIEVE Mentor

DCIEVE

Posted
Posted

Remove turbo, unbolt manifold, chuck a couple nuts on the stud and take it out. but be prepared for broken studs which makes the job an absolute pain in the arse. especially if you break an easy out off in a stud and have to tig on top of it to get the bloody stud out.

you'll need the gasket and new studs only, do the mani/turbo gasket while your at it to be safe. is an easy job but can take some time

ix9 Grand Master

ix9

Posted
Posted

The studs themself are cheap. But come in parts

*The stud itself

*The top bolt

*The springy washer

*The flat washer

By memory it was around $6 for each stud set all up.

The replacement manifold was about $140 Genuine Nissan also.

Your local Nissan dealer can get them in no probs.

If you're doing it yourself, i gaurantee at least ONE will snap off, so have a drill and an easy-out handy, as you're gonna need it! Took me about 2 days to replace 3 of my broken ones.

I also used ultra-heat gasket sealant aswell, so now it's a helluva lot stronger than before!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • soviet_merlin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • niZmO_Man
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • TurboTapin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...