Jump to content
SAU Community

Arias Forgies - Problems ??

TokyoTaxi

By TokyoTaxi,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

Its worth a shot mate.

I had a friend at work, had a 20valve Toyota motor, that was rebuilt.

The place that installed it filled it up with Mobil 1, fully synthetic from the start. It wouldn't make ANY power, just blue smoke!! Shows how good synthetic oil really is as a lubricant, as nothing bedded in at all

After much bitching with the workshop without getting anywhere, his old man drained the oil, ad replaced it with some cheap mineral oil from Kmart, it was about 10bucks for 5litres. filled it up, new filter etc, and took it for a 4 hour drive, loading it up as much as possible e.g 5th gear up hills, high revs, downhills in low gear high revs etc. Next day, same thing, 4 hours of non stop driving, as much varying the revs as he could.

It started to come good

Two weeks later with the same oil in it, after about 2000km of driving, it was back to normal, and smiles all round

I'd try it mate, serioulsy it should help. I'd get some cheap mineral oil, new filter and give it a shot. It it starts to come good, keep going with it until its better, and then maybe run some Nissan 7.5-30 semi-synth for a few changes

Just seems to me that the bores/rings never had a chance to bed in, especially with the synthetic oil used to run it in. A big no-no

My 2c anyhow......

Chris

TokyoTaxi Veteran

TokyoTaxi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I guess I've got nothing to lose and it buys me some time to save some money ( yeah right ! )

Still, I do want to hear more from anyone else with regards to these pistons and rings so I can get well balanced optinion. At the moment I'm not sure if I could recommend them to someone building an engine.

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

give it a try mate, long weekend coming up and all should mean you can rack up some serious kms. Chances are it will help, and for the cost ( 'bout 20 bucks worth of oil, and maybe $80 in petrol depending on kms) its well worth the effort

Also stay away from leeting it idle to warm up, turn the key and drive normally as soon as it starts, it might help the process a little quicker (no boost though until warmed up)

Chris

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

Look, there's nothing wrong with arias pistons and rings - provided they are fitted correctly and run in correctly.

By the sounds of it the guy who put the full syunthetic oil for the run in didn't know WTF he was doing. U NEVER use synthgetic oil for the run in.

Try chris32's option, and if that doesnt work u may have to go for a re hone on the cylinders.

Arias are good pistons (most piston companies are supplied their rings by wiesco) so dont believe the BS someone is feedig you.

  • 2 weeks later...
TokyoTaxi Veteran

TokyoTaxi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Actually, I was so disheartened by the whole issue that I've only just started trying to sort things out. What I have done ( you ready for this ?? ) is poured 1 litre of Kero into the engine oil ( engine at operating temp ) and let it idle for 10 minutes. Watched the engine temp rise slightly, heard the engine making less than purring noises and watched the idle drop slightly. I would imagine this level of anxiety would be something like watching a family member being tortured :D

Anyway, I drained the sump and oil cooler then replaced the filter and filled her up with 30W mineral oil and have since put about 200kms on it. Will keep going till I've clocked up 1000kms and then do a comp test to see what's happened ( if anything ).

TokyoTaxi Veteran

TokyoTaxi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Next I'm going to try the sand in the cylinder's trick, then flush with MEK ( Methyletherketone ) and stuff a banana skin down each plug hole to build compression :D

Eg. I'm going to pretend I own a holden ( joke.....)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...