Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

R34 GTT isnt getting a signal to the fuel pump

have tested the fuel pump with a direct 12V source and it works

when car is switched to ON, the pump doesn't prime

does anybody know possible reasons for this?

is there a stock fuel pump relay, if so where it it located?

thanks for the help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392070-no-signal-to-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

had a similar prob with a sr s13 turned out to be the bolt that holds the ecu plug in was not done up

ecu plug is deffinitly on tight

i tried to get some diagnostic codes using the diagnostic plug, but couldnt get the engine light on the dash to flash

im leaning towards a faulty ecu

gonna try get hold of a spare r34 neo gtt ecu to test it, or put my ecu in another r34 (if anybody can help me that would be great)

cheers

surely there should be a relay in the fuse box under the bonnet in r34 test if there is power getting to the relay if there is its prob the relay if not, its something pre relay ecu/wiring/earth maybe if you wanna check if the ecu fuel pump output is working get a wiring diagrame and check the wire on the plug for ecu?

I just had this issue with my R33.

Hard wire it to another 12v source. I used the 4ws lol. Seeing as im not using it.

In my case it appears the circuit is dodgy. As my boost controller stopped working too.

Fuel Pump, boost controller (wired to stock solenoid wiring) and stock narrowband were all only getting 11v. Not enough to make them work.

I just re wired them all to different sources (bar the narrowband as its not in use) and all is fine again.

Leave the earths as the are.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...