Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Think of getting some new standard springs/shocks for my car. like the way it handles but realise the car is now bout 17 years old an the shockies probably shit emselves 10 years ago an the springs have probably sagged.

does anyone know where to get new standard ones an wot $$$ they are?? or is putting standard ones back on just stupid? opinions experience would be great. thanks in advance :thanks:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392328-stock-r33-v-spec-suspension/
Share on other sites

I think you would like it even more if you put a nice combo of Kings low + Bilsteins in it. That, or similar combos, is the "standard" non-standard upgrade that people do. The ride won't be too harsh, but the car will handle even better.

If you can even still buy genuine dampers, it's hardly likely that they will be as nice as Bilsteins, and worse, they'd probably be dearer anyway.

The performance shop where my car is atm is trying to talk me into some tein super streets with incar remote to adjust the settings but they not real easy on the wallet, not sure if this only adjusts the dampening or can adjust the height.. sure someone can tell me. tho i am happy with how it handles now so i would go for something fairly standard if there is a big price diff. I've been told the standard 33gtr suspension is alot softer than the v-spec not sure if thats right or not. havent bn for a ride in any other skylines so dont really know. but dont really want it any harder or lowere than the v-spec cos our roads out here are shit, but dont really want it any softer for the times i mangage to find a smooth deserted range.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...